Hey Jord , Can you confirm that the (a bit over 8 kgs ) is with or without straps . The board spec is 7.3 kgs without straps +/- 6% . If you assume the top end of the tolerance that puts a new board at a possible weight of just over 7.7 Kg's without straps . Add straps and your board is within production tolerance . If your weighing without straps you may be chasing as little as 500 grams .
I,de hate to see you going to all this effort for nothing !!!!!
regards Martin

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Originally posted by curac

take the bung out sit it upside down.. maybe drill a couple of hole and stick it in a hot car
works a treat

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I think I read that damp/moist air is actually lighter than dry air, so you should keep it bung up.

The other thing you need to be careful of is opening the bung straight after a windsurf, then sticking your bag into a sealed board bag. The straps, wet board and deckpads can hold up to half a litre - it'll all end up in your board as it cools and sucks in the super saturated air into the vent...

quote:

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Originally posted by snides8

cant keep away from this topic...
never,never,never blow or try to force air into the board.
this is the easiest way to cause the styrene core to fracture and create the dreaded delam!!!!!

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Oops!

Never ever trust Nebbian's comments...

quote:

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Originally posted by Crash Landing

quote:

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Originally posted by curac

take the bung out sit it upside down.. maybe drill a couple of hole and stick it in a hot car
works a treat

---

I think I read that damp/moist air is actually lighter than dry air, so you should keep it bung up.

The other thing you need to be careful of is opening the bung straight after a windsurf, then sticking your bag into a sealed board bag. The straps, wet board and deckpads can hold up to half a litre - it'll all end up in your board as it cools and sucks in the super saturated air into the vent...

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Yeah board bags should be well ventilated, but they're not.

i havent got anything on my board any more not even the foam pads to answer mr loves question i just took it off the spinner and the wight has shifted to teh end and it is about 200 grams lighter but that is a very very aproximate reading, i should get an electric scale onto it as wel; but so far so goood

open board surgery solved my problem. when a sailing buddy noticed a fine fracture line on the rail about a foot back from the nose of my board, subsequent pressing revealed a large soft area. i just cut away all the outer layers in an area about 30cm x 10cm, so the foam was exposed. as i was going away for 3 weeks, i left the board in my van with the windows slightly down, and when i came back the previously soggy foam was dry as. then just patch up with epoxy and Q cell, and bob's your father's brother.

I think Simon at brisbane boardcrazy used a spinner for wet boards. He should have info on optimum revs, holes, vertical or horizontal etc

Kite pumps fit into the vent with plug removed and most can be reversed to pump air out

I've had cracks in the midle of my board at times from hitting reef but never seem to get much water in from these (unlike cracks around the mast track or finbox which seem to suck heaps of water). I'm assuming the closed cell foam in the sandwich layer (such as Dininycell or Airex) protects the EPS core from sucking water. Is this correct ?

I'm guessing that cracks around the mast track & finbox are worse because the water can track down the box past the sandwich to the EPS core ? Or maybe it's just that it may take a few sessions for me to notice a crack around the finbox whereas hitting the reef is obvious

How bad would it be then to keep on sailing on a good day with such a crack in the middle of the board ?
Ta
holgs