are you a tradesmen?

It sounds like the joint compound is partially drying before the tape goes on.
It might be that you are too slow putting the tape on after you have spread the joint compound along the seam. If the compound starts to dry a bit then the paper tape doesn't stick properly and will bubble up later on.
You can stop this by doing the seam in shorter sections so it doesn't dry as much. (which is what I did)
The experts tape a long seam in about 60 seconds flat so drying is not a problem. It looks real easy but it's like everything else in life, it's only easy if you do it every day.
Apparently you can also wet the tape first but I didn't try this so I don't know how effective that is.

For big jobs it's probably best to put up the gyprock yourself but then get in a real person to tape the joints. They do it fast so it doesn't cost much and the job looks far better.

Bender said...

Anotehr option is to use the joint tape that is a mesh. Its heaps easier for less experinced punters. I have done quite a bit of flushing even though I'm a carpenter

Although note that the mesh is not suited for ceilings (no idea why though)

nebbian said...

Bender said...

Anotehr option is to use the joint tape that is a mesh. Its heaps easier for less experinced punters. I have done quite a bit of flushing even though I'm a carpenter

Although note that the mesh is not suited for ceilings (no idea why though)

Expansion / contraction cracks prolly ??

Only use paper tape in internal corners . Or you can also use metal internal corners

Use a sloppy mix to bed the paper tape in the corner using the corner tool

Always use mesh tape on all rebated and butt joints .

2 base coats , 1 top coat then sand

f**k all the gyprock off and use lining boards!

As Kiterider said , use mesh tape, apply a thin coat , then feed and press the mesh on using a wide paint scraper , using this method will alleviate the bubbling (mesh is much easier ) and make the joining process of joining correctly ( very important because not right means cracking later)much easier , then give a wipe , Gently but firmly ,( if that makes sense ) with a flat square trowell.
Make sure the edges are SMOOTH ! (easier to finish).
There is a trowell with a concave in the working edge which applies more product to the centre of the trowell when you apply the finish coat, this means you have a bit of coverage to sand , and not sand back to the mesh -- not a good look.
Hope this helps

If more info required pm me
Regards cassa

SandS said...

Only use paper tape in internal corners . Or you can also use metal internal corners

Use a sloppy mix to bed the paper tape in the corner using the corner tool

Always use mesh tape on all rebated and butt joints .

2 base coats , 1 top coat then sand

Was a chippy for 12yrs, did most of my own plastering and this is the only way i would recommend. Just back block all your ceilings and you,ll never have a problem.

the gibbo said...

Have been a pro builder for over 20yrs and back to lots of repeat clients etc etc

Dont use mesh tape ever, it was originaly made for patching cracks and holes until lazy buggers got hold of it and used it everywhere, the only reason it gets used is cos its easier to put on(sticky back), it cracks after a while on walls,ceilings,corners everywhere

Not in Vic mate , mesh every where except internal corners no dramas here .