QLD
118 posts
a mate just got the 12 meter Liquid Force Assult kite and has had nothing but trouble flying it .. is there a secret to tuning these kites to fly easily or are they just bloody difficult ??
NSW
210 posts
I think they released a bridle mod because the kite had a few issues when first released. I've seen a couple of guys rip on an assault so I think they must be fixable.
Why have so many manufacturers cocked up their bridles? Don't they test their kites properly these days?
QLD
14 posts
i have recently upgraded from an assault to a havoc, my assault had the same problem, i got some shorter bridle connections sent to me to make the kite fly more stable and have more power. the new connection lines i have on it are alot shorter than my original ones.
QLD
118 posts
where can i get the bridle mods from??
QLD
1674 posts
Is it an Assault I or II? I have not had to modify any IIs out of all the ones we sold/demo. Factory settings work well, and touch wood, it is the only bow kite I have used/tested that has not inverted once. Give us a call if you need to discuss any setting up issues, or consult the distributor who sold you the kite.
The Assault II is much refined, much better depower system. I have a 12 year old grommet in our team who loves it to bits.
QLD
29 posts
Ok on the assualt 1, they were all set up with waaaay long backlines...
Shorten the backlines above the depower strap as much as the knots will allow.
Then tie another knot (the same distance apart as the others) above the 3rd knot on the pigtails on the back of the kite...
In light wind, stick the back lines on the new 4th knot...
In heavy winds put it on the 3rd knot...
When its above 20 -25knots, stick it on the 2nd knot...
This should make it fly a LOT nicer... but remember, the Assaults take a lot of work to keep flying... they fall to the water REALLY quick which is annoying...
btw this is only for a 12m Assault 1...
Hope this helps
VIC
19 posts
Depends if you have a LF assault 1 (2006) or 2. The one has 2 pump system, the 2 has a one pump. I have a LF 12m one and it needed a 6cm loop tied in the rear line between the rear connector and the rear tip of the kite. This takes approx 12cm out of the line. Once done the kite should fly fine. The other thing a lot of people miss is that they fly on the front lines. If you oversheet a bow they tend to stall, so in light and strong wind I tend to pull on approx half depower. If you pull the bar in too far it will oversheet the kite and stall it, hence the depower adjustment so you can fly with the bar comfortably close and with still enough to sheet in and boost. I don't agree that you have to work the kite either on else it crashs. These kites rely on wind speed to generate power, and fly with speed, but providing you let them fly rather than stalling them, they are easy, and very stable. A couple of sine's and usuallly you can then level off and are planing. I can cover 12knts to 25 with my 12m (80kg and underground 132) and have an 07 assault 9m for windier. If you have an 07, then the bar is way better and easier to depower. Start on the closest (to the kite) rear connector and see how it goes. If you need to pull on a fair bit of depower to prevenmt stalling, then try the next connector, and so on. Once set you will just rig it that way. Hope this helps. Cheers.
NSW
251 posts
Maybe you just need a few sessions to get used to it. Otherwise, try thr bridle mod on the LF website. I took awhile to get used to them from C kites. Have no prbs with them other then it giving tonnes of power when unhooked..
NSW
4382 posts
If it is an Assault1 then it needs the bridle mod to fly properly, I think I still have some spare bridle kits, send me a message or contact Masterline, the importer. The bridle upgrades were free, and made the kite fly normally as you would expect with any similar bridled bow kite.
Cya and
Goodwinds
Steve