Plummet said...
just read your blog.
A hint for the jig saw is to buy metal cutting blades. Wood cutting blades are not robust enough. A metal cutting blade will easily cut through many glass/carbon/ply boards.
PS I'm interested to see what you do regarding the fins. Are you simply going to layup glass on a flat surface and cut and and trim by hand?
maybe i should make some fins too?....
Great thread guys! Makes me want to make another board (but so many other things to do first)
Yes, the metal cutting blade is a good idea, they also have more 'teeth per inch' (TPI). When cutting thin sections (like kiteboard rails) the coarser wood blades may only have a couple of teeth in contact at any one time, leading to a rougher cut that is harder to control.
Dean, you mention in your blog the template follow that needs the template to be under the board. Consider getting a flush trim bit and/or rabbeting bit and/or pattern following bit. They work a treat and the path of the cut is unaffected if you rotate the router during the cut. (the template follow on you blog requires the follower to be kept at 90 deg to the edge during the cut. Not so easy on the corners of the board).
Examples of bits here....
http://www.carbatec.com.au/rabbeting-bits_c9450www.carbatec.com.au/pattern-following-bit_c9470www.carbatec.com.au/flush-trim-bits_c9460Also, the rabbeting (or rebating) bit can be fitting with different bearing diameters to change the rebate size (can be used for flush trimming too)
btw, I have no connection with carbatec, they just happened to be the first ones I found.
I hope the above makes sense, PM me if needed.
Thanks for sharing and love your work