Removing stuck footstrap bolt from board

> 10 years ago
Reply
Register to post, see what you've read, and subscribe to topics.
brooksy
brooksy
WA
498 posts
WA, 498 posts
7 May 2006 3:47pm
Went to give my board a bit of a clean today and one of the bolts is stuck fast.

Have tried soaking with CRC, tried a sharp knock with a hammer a couple of times to break any corrosion and made sure I used the right size phillips head screw driver. But now no screw driver will remove it.

Any ideas how to remove the screw?
Really don't want to drill out the bolt and then have to rethread. Luckily the footstrap is still attached so I suppose I could just leave it there forever - but it would be good to remove.

Suggestions??
Munter
Munter
NSW
210 posts
NSW, 210 posts
7 May 2006 6:17pm
Try giving the CRC a little more time to work. Douse it and leave it overnight. It takes time to properly penetrate the thread of the bolt.
greenleader
greenleader
QLD
5283 posts
QLD, 5283 posts
7 May 2006 10:05pm
20mm hole saw
elizabethb
elizabethb
QLD
2081 posts
QLD, 2081 posts
7 May 2006 10:22pm
If you can get your hands on good old 'Amway' Wonder Mist.... You won't regret it.

Says on the spray can (235g) "Spray lubricant and corrosion inhibitor for home and industrial use. Lubricates locks, hinges, windows, sliding doors, gears, springs, precision tooks, small motors, toys, bicycles and sporting equipment. Penetrates quickly to loosen corroded nuts, bolts, fasteners and screws. OUTSTANDING CORROSION & RUST INHIBITOR that keeps metal parts looking and operating like new. Stops squeaks & reduces friction. Moisture retardant forumlae."

I wouldn't go past this product. Spray it on, leave it for about 15 minutes, spray a dot more, and (so it doesn't damage the board) tap the top of the hammer and turn at the same time until it loosens - Worked a charm for my board screws.

Good luck!
Elizabeth Bate - Wello Kiter
professor
professor
QLD
277 posts
QLD, 277 posts
7 May 2006 10:23pm
hmm some geat ideas here, also what about giving the old
Monkey Grips a go
also this is the last screw yer
Im thinking maybe that "leave it alone" is a good idea if you have others that are just as much trouble
also not to forget you will have to go buy the screws
g-dog
g-dog
WA
145 posts
WA, 145 posts
8 May 2006 12:05pm
OK, I haven't tried this, but this is what I'd do (carefully!)

After a good soaking with CRC or WD-40 or Wonder Mist, I'd use a variable speed cordless drill that takes screwdriver bits that also has a hammer mode. I'd attach a screwdriver bit, set it to hammer, maximum torque and use the slowest speed.

It MAY provide both the turning and shaking you need. It MAY break something and it MAY also do nothing, but I would try it if I had the same problem.
tobes
tobes
NSW
1000 posts
NSW, 1000 posts
8 May 2006 2:43pm
quote:
Originally posted by g-dog

I'd attach a screwdriver bit, set it to hammer, maximum torque and use the slowest speed.


Don't do that. You'll burr out the screw head in no time. ElisabethB's hammer and screwdriver combo is good.
It sounds like you have already burred the phillips head screw, if so, things are a bit trickier. Stainless is really soft, so there is a risk of breaking the head off.
I'd try vise-grips. If that doesn't grip it maybe use a fine hacksaw blade and cut a slot to use a standard screwdriver.
Otherwise, the easy option, leave it there for ever.
Oakie
Oakie
WA
268 posts
WA, 268 posts
8 May 2006 2:44pm
Easy, give the board to me.
I garuntee, within 5 minutes that mofo will come loose, with me a Km off shore and having to ride back wakeskate style
elizabethb
elizabethb
QLD
2081 posts
QLD, 2081 posts
8 May 2006 5:06pm
quote:
Originally posted by tobes ElisabethB's hammer and screwdriver combo is good.


Good ole grandfather's words passed onto me during his time - Somethings you learn in your life are priceless

quote:
Originally posted by g-dog

OK, I haven't tried this, but this is what I'd do (carefully!)

I'd attach a screwdriver bit, set it to hammer, maximum torque and use the slowest speed.



I can easily see the reasoning behind that mate, but I think with something as brittle/ porus as a kiteboard, with the hammer mode on would either split it or weaken that point. Especailly when you consider the hammer setting is to have a hammer drill part attached to it drill into bricks! Works like a charm into bricks aka - not for kiteboards lol

If you can't get it off, leave it there and it might loosen with the continual movement, whereas it certainly won't tighten anymore lol

Goodwinds

Elizabeth bate - Wello Kiter
nebbian
nebbian
WA
6277 posts
WA, 6277 posts
8 May 2006 5:52pm
If it's the last screw, and the footstrap is free to rotate, then you can sometimes persuade it by rotating the whole footstrap around as you twist with the screwdriver. So you're driving the screw both from the top and also where the screw touches the footstrap.

[Edit] whoops, the head is on the bottom of the board, right? Well in that case hold the board and screwdriver still, and try to unscrew the footstrap by itself. In any case, you want the bit that is underneath the head to stay still with respect to the screwdriver, as this gives you a bit more twisting force.


As others have said, tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer as you twist also works wonders

I've had to resort to cutting a slot in the top before, it's really a last resort sort of thing. Grabbing the outside of the screw head with multigrips often works.

One other thing, some screws look like phillips but are actually a different shape, they have little sharp cutouts between the main 'phillips' lobes. It looks like someone got a scribe and put an 'x' in at 45 degrees to the main lobes. These require a special screwdriver, not a normal phillips, you can twist twice as hard with the special driver than a phillips.

Good luck!
doppelganger
doppelganger
VIC
337 posts
VIC, 337 posts
8 May 2006 8:21pm
When trying to get it out(ani-clockwise), with whatever method,turn it clocwise as well. This helps to keep the phillips head seated in the phillips hole, reducing burring.
greenleader
greenleader
QLD
5283 posts
QLD, 5283 posts
8 May 2006 8:43pm
smash the living crap out of it.
Skid
Skid
QLD
1499 posts
QLD, 1499 posts
8 May 2006 9:07pm
Brooksy,

If it helps at all, the screw type that Nebbian described above is a pozidrive (it has parallel faces instead of the slightly tapered faces of the phillips head).

You might have some luck using an impact driver fitted with a screwdriver bit, just be careful how hard you hit it and make sure the board is well supported.

Sometimes a bit of heat can free things up but given that most boards won't take much heat you are probably limited to using a solering iron on the head of the screw.

If it is possible, combine the use of vise grips on the screw head, screwdriver and tapping with hammer all at once (obviously you will need some help).

If the head breaks off, you may be able to CAREFULLY drill a hole in the screw and use an Ezy-out the remove it (available from fastener suppliers and good tool stores). If you have to drill stainless steel, use a sharp (new) drill, low speed, good lubricant and a fair bit of pressure.

Good luck,

Skid
brooksy
brooksy
WA
498 posts
WA, 498 posts
8 May 2006 7:39pm
I've tried nearly everyone's suggestions to do with just screwing it out - ie tapping, twisting in both directions, soaking, lots of crc, rotating the footstrap whilst screwing and got the right size phillips head (it's definitely phillips head).
I've started to burr the screw, so multi-grips are my next option.

Then I'm thinking about heat, hack saw won't easily fit without damaging the footstrap.

So my last option will be drill plus the ezi-out or screw extractor. It's a slingy board - they have nice ~1/4" tread with mushroom/round head, so can get a decent size drill bit in there.

Does anyone know if the screw extractors (the one I have previously used looked like a conical shaped drill bit with a cutting edge winding around the piece) are ok to use with a stainless metal thread or are they only good with a screw/self tapping type thread?

Also, thanks everyone has been really helpful! And I'm sure will be helpful for others in the future. Will let you know what I find works best.
doppelganger
doppelganger
VIC
337 posts
VIC, 337 posts
8 May 2006 10:33pm
When using Ezy-Outs, make sure you keep the Ezy-Out vertical as you use it, they have a habit of wanting to run of to the side, and when you drill your guide hole, make sure it's vertical also. Try and heat the screw as much as possible before hand and for some reason, a smear of oil on the guide hole seems to help.

JayBee
JayBee
NSW
714 posts
NSW, 714 posts
9 May 2006 6:42am
If you are already burring the bolt then you may as well use a Dremel to grind a straight slot into the bolthead. Then get the biggest flathead screwdriver you can find and plenty of elbowgrease.
Only use the Dremel for short bursts to prevent heat buildup, but once you have completed the slot, give the screwdriver a go straight away. Just like the soldering iron solution, the heat from the Dremel can assist getting the bolt out.

JB
aus470
aus470
NSW
45 posts
NSW, 45 posts
9 May 2006 8:23am
yeah heat is the go, try a heat gun. Heat in intervals though. Be sure not to cook the board.
brooksy
brooksy
WA
498 posts
WA, 498 posts
14 May 2006 1:32pm
Thanks for everyone's advice. I ended up being able to get them off with a pair of vice grips and an extra overnight soaking in crc. I had about 4 attempts on 4 different days and managed to get all but one out that way. Boy though, new bolts are exy!
carbine
carbine
WA
1450 posts
WA, 1450 posts
14 May 2006 4:34pm
quote:
Originally posted by brooksy

Thanks for everyone's advice. I ended up being able to get them off with a pair of vice grips and an extra overnight soaking in crc. I had about 4 attempts on 4 different days and managed to get all but one out that way. Boy though, new bolts are exy!


buy them from a chandlery they are cheap. Dont ever buy hardware from a kite shop.

i've replaced mine with bolts, easy to get on easy to get off Just have to becareful how hard u crank them coz you will prolly snap the board if u do them up tight.
brooksy
brooksy
WA
498 posts
WA, 498 posts
15 May 2006 6:30am
Don't worry I didn't buy from a kite shop - WAY OVER PRICED! Got it from a boat builder for a bout half the price, but still exy.

Thanks heaps!
azza
azza
1338 posts
1338 posts
15 May 2006 8:21am
Go the whole hog... get yourself some anti-seaze compound to treat the threads with. Expensive but well worth it.

(you might ask a friendly engineer/mechanic for a small blob from his industrial sized tub, if you're as cheap as me) (or be really cheap and just use grease)
CARBONINIT
CARBONINIT
WA
48 posts
WA, 48 posts
15 May 2006 3:30pm
Had the same problem .What head has the bolt got ? If you have burred it ,cut a slot across the top .I use a brace and bit. Works every time .When you put the bolts back in smear with vaseline and check now and again .
Please Register, or first...
Topics Subscribe Reply