The kit your after is it the one that changes it to a 5 line c kite? If so i found it worse. There was an upgraded bridle on them soon after they were released that most would have been upgraded to.

You can kite on the link as is just dont pull the bar all of the way in and don't let it go to far out either.

Please explain ?

waxman said..
The kit your after is it the one that changes it to a 5 line c kite? If so i found it worse.

Well it's actually already in that mode (5 line), but I am not sure if it's the "official" set up that Slingshot recommended back then, or in a "C kite" configuration, as the bridles on mine look like they've been modified. I'll have to post a pic. But as I said above, the kite flew "fine".

Total respect for having a go.
There is no reason you can't play with the bridle and setup and make it work well.

kemp90 said...
can some one find that funny clip that a lad made about the link, that was gold! iv been trying to find it for a wile!

That cartoon one?

waxman said..
Give it a crack then. The water is a much safer place to be with a kite. What size is it?

12m waxman.

I got an email from Slingshot saying, '... We don't stock those old bridle kits anymore and highly recommend you do not fly the kite...we get a lot of emails from guys that have been given these old kites for free etc and we recommend they be thrown in the bin...'.

Yes, but the canopy and everything else is soooo crispy and hardly used... Mwwwahhh!!!!

The official link bridle isn't all that great anyway (you will be wanting the pulley 4 line version), so I wouldn't look too hard for it. Set it up like just about every other free-ride kite these days (with 4 pullies / 2 double "V's" on the front lines (look up images of a Cabrinha Switchblade bridle for example). Use a direct connection to the rear lines). The first V on the front bridle should be as long as you can make it, without it snagging one of the struts (ie, run the pulley along the V towards the nearest strut. Make sure it's 10cm shorter. The second V length should be as long as you can make it without snaring a wingtip.

Lastly, remember front and back bridle lines need to be equal length when they join your bar lines (in the position when it is hovering above your head). So when you are making a single rear bridle line to match your new front V bridle, get someone to tilt the kite forward to mimic its flying position. Then going straight back / parallel to the ground, with your front V bridles laid out at their longest point, put a knot on your rear bridle line. Then add 20cm more and add another knot.

Start with the longest rear knot first, as this should be the least powered. Add / subtract knots accordingly to your wind conditions. The sweet spot should be at equal length, but start with longer first just in case you are out with your measurement.

This bridle will be far superior to the bridle design of yesteryear. It will make it quite a nice free ride kite to fly, as they pulleys will reduce bar pressure and soak up the gusts. But things like relaunch, boosting ability and upwind ability etc are all a factor of the wing design...and that's where the link will show its age.