Needed to get tension in the lines to have any hope of a relaunch or it correcting itself. I would've taken the swim option.

I meant swim to get tension in the lines to see what the kite had done.
Once you can assess how boned you are... then swim in.

I caught a toeside edge and got flogged on sunday. My 2010 10m switchy then got a front line caught over the canopy so I couldnt relaunch. Pulled QR1 and went up the front lines to fix it and managed to create the biggest tangle of my life! not cool.

But I actually connect my leash to the ring on IDS line not the chicken loop trapizoid thingly where Cab tell you to. That way when QR1 is released I still have a physical connection to my kite not just a velcro tab holding it together. If all else fails you can then totally ditch you gear by using QR2 or and pull the leash QR.

SlicerDicer said...

christofurry said...

I caught a toeside edge and got flogged on sunday. My 2010 10m switchy then got a front line caught over the canopy so I couldnt relaunch.

Youch thats lucky the kite did not rip in half

meh, i've wrapped bridles and lines round my kites heaps of times. kites don't rip in half so easily.

christofurry said...


I actually connect my leash to the ring on IDS line not the chicken loop trapizoid thingly where Cab tell you to. That way when QR1 is released I still have a physical connection to my kite not just a velcro tab holding it together.

yeah. hooking the leash onto the trapezoid means that when QR1 is fired off, only that scrap of velcro tethers you to the kite. I also clip the leash to that ring, which is why i've still got a kite... when the loop unhooked the velcro let go. if i'd leashed onto the trapezoid i'd have been scraping the kite off a rockwall.

but i guess cab's idea is to leash onto the trap for unhooked stuff.

You will find most of the Cabs have so much depower when you let the bar go . ....... that you can quite safely ride with your leash in the "suicide" position

ie: Clipped over the black plastic tube/covering lines just above the chicken loop and below the bar, in the event of an incident just let go of the bar....... if the kite is tangled or looping pull your safety ( above chicken loop ) your chicken loop will remain on your harness and the leash will remain attached to your kite but should create enough slack for a short period that the kite will either crash or untangle a wrapped line if all else fails pull your second safety ( the one on your leash ) and you will be free.

I can only speak for Cab SB's as I have not had enough experience on other kites to vouch for their safety for beginners with this method

I have ridden all my SB's like this and never had a problem, IMO the IDS line is a w@nk, was never needed and I have nevr attached my leash to it. ( although I do conceed it can be useful for self landing if it is very gusty as an emergency fall back or if you are more comfortable using it )

harry potter said...

leash in the "suicide" position

good call. i'll give that a go.

[IDS line is a w@nk... can be useful for self landing if it is very gusty

IMHO the whole IDS is. i find the dangly trim bungy knobby things get in the way and there's altogether too much hardware hanging around above the bar. but i like the kite.

a bit off topic, but since you mention self-landing... any tips on getting the kite to plonk facedown on the beach? in lighter wind i can get it to park itself by flying it down onto its LE, but if there are gusts happening it's just as likely to bounce back up and start rolling. unlike other kites where you can reach the top front line to help it to fall over

grabbing both front lines and walking up to the kite (i guess pretty much what would happen if you hit the QR) drops the kite onto its back, which effectively kills the power and is a good safe default landing, but it's also a good way to get a stick thru the canopy.

Cab 09/10/11 IDS kites.

Do not connect the leash to the ring on the IDS line, only connect the leash to the metal part of the chicken loop, on the 2010 and 2011 kites there is a separate hole for it. User manual downloads are here.
www.cabrinhakites.com/user-manual-downloads.html

Please watch this video if you have any doubt about how the IDS system works, and where you leash should be connected.
http://www.cabrinhakites.com/powerdrive-ids.html

If you connect the leash to the IDS ring on the 2009 model, then when you release Quick Release1 in an emergency or when self landing, the IDS will too easily disconnect. This will make it more difficult to relaunch and more likely that you will get tangles, and may have to use QR2 on your leash and completely let go of your kite.

The system does work as shown in the video, problems only occur when people who have not practiced using it, try to use it without understanding it, and how much the kite will depower when the bar is released all the way out to the trim system.

If a kite lands leading down and towards you on the water, swim to the side and pull on one rear line until the kite catches wind and turns into the normal relaunch position. Same advice for a line over, swim to one side and try to pull that line around the side of the kite. (sometimes a line over is a swim/self rescue episode though)

If the kite is not relaunching easily due to wind shadow or lighter winds, pull on one rear line and get the kite moving sideways, then quickly release that rear line and quickly grab and pull the opposite rear line, this technique when practised will relaunch SB's even in very light winds. Leave the bar in the fully out/depowered position, do not pull on the bar until the kite is off the water, and even then only enough to steer it up. Pulling in on the bar too much when attempting relaunch is the greatest cause of relaunch failure on SB's and most kites.