New approach to simpler axles

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Kody
Kody
QLD
190 posts
QLD, 190 posts
27 Mar 2009 10:06am
With so many questions appearing about "how to do it", I decided to show you all how I will be making and fitting up the axles for my next project, a slightly modified LLM. As I started to design the axle structure, I thought I would design an asssembly that could be made without a lathe.
The drawings will, I hope, explain everything involved. The design is based on the use of a 20mm dia. axle. The length is shown as a nominal size and made need to be ajusted to suit your own needs. The 20mm thread can be cut with a threading die. but will require a bit more expense. Use the fine thread series format for the thread as it will be easier to do and provide a more precise ajustment to the bearing assembly. The axle is located in two 3mm plates that are welded to the RHS and the axle. The welding of the two plates must be done with lots of care as any missalignment will render the project very hard to make or even impossible to do. There is a very easy way assemble and weld the structure and have a precision assembly to be proud of. I will explain this later, ask me if I forget.
The two 3mm plates are drilled out to 20.00mm using a stepped drill. I saw one in a tool shop that looked fabulous for this project.
These two plates are the heart of the project and must be made as precisely as you can. Make them as a pair for each side and mark them so they can be assembled in the same position that you made them. The plates must be a neat fit in the RHS. Dont forget to file a groove to clear the weld "rib" inside the RHS.
The biggest problem has been to upload the PDF files to the forum. I have had to use another forum, upload the files there, then transfer them back here. --- Laurie, could you please, please include the pdf. format for uploading the files please?
I tried to use a conversion to jpeg but all the detail was lost. Using the attached files, you can also enlarge the drawings and get all the fine details. Hey Cisco- can you find my name in the drawing?
I will try and upload the other drawings if I can remember how I did it

www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=100546&stc=1&d=1238107894

This section is a new edit to include all the extra info.

ahttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=100554&d=1238111134

The above drawing shows how to put it all together. I forgot to add that you need to make four of the 3mm plates that are used to locate the axle. They are made in pairsand each pair is marked on the corners to facilitate alignment within the 35 x 35 RHS

Measure the exact amount of axle you want to have protruding out for the wheel to be attached to. Mark the point with a PEN! Do not scratch, file or cut a mark on the axle as this will create a point for a fracture in the future. Slide one of the 3mm plates onto the axle and locate at your pen mark. Now mark the axle on the other side of the 3mm plate. This length must be at least 61mm. To weld the parts a simple jig is needed. Cut off some 35 x 35 x 2 RHS about 80mm or 100mm at most. Clean all the burrs and sharp edges off from inside and out. This is the welding jig.

Fit one of the 3mm plates into one end of the RHS jig. The plate must be flush with the end of the jig and as square as possible to the axle. Slide the the threaded end of the axle into the hole in the plate.Slide the other 3mm plate over the threaded end of the axle and fit flush inside the jig. Do not touch or weld this threaded end of the Axle. Slide the axle further through the two plates so that the last mark you made on the axle is touching the 3mm plate. Tack weld the axle to the plate. Only a tack weld is needed in 3 or 4 places. Measure out a distance of 55mm from the plate and make another mark. Remove the axle and loose plate from the jig. Fit the loose plate into one end of the jig. Holding the axle by the threaded end, slide the axle and welded plate through the open end of the jig and through the "loose" plate. Align the last mark on the axle to the outer side of the plate. The end is now welded all the way round with a fillet weld. If you have done this correctly, you will have the two 3mm plates welded to the axle and the plates will be exactly 52mm apart and the 3mm plates will be perfectly aligned.
Slide the assembly into the end of your axle tube/s and locate as per the drawing. the "inner" 3mm plate should now be seen in the center of the 7mm dia holes in the RHS. A simple "Plug" weld will hold it all together and you can now run a small bead around the edge of the plate and RHS. If you cant understand this procedure, tell me (!) and I will submit a drawing/s to help explain it. When you weld the final bead and the 3 or 4 tack welds on the axle, wrap the axle with a protective tape to prevent splatter from damaging the bearing surface.

Hope this works for you all

Kody
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
27 Mar 2009 2:34pm
I have got the general gist of what you are saying but will have to read it a few times to get the detail.

Edit:- Having read it through thoroughly I suggest the following.

With your new plan if the jig is cut to suit the length of the axle, the initial guide plate could be clamped onto the axle with a nut on each side of the plate. This plate could be an extra plate made as a specific part of the welding jig. If the plate happens to be slightly loose with it's fit in the RHS, this will ensure the plate does not fall over and jam when tapping with the electrode to strike the arc.

Also the jig "box" could have a split on opposite sides of one end so that the plate being welded can be clamped in the jig. This set up should ensure the ultimate in accuracy I believe.

End of Edit.

When I clicked to the other forum link it said "invalid attachment specified", so could not view the drawing. Could you private mail me the drawings Joe.

These 1" axles of mine have to go. They are just too heavy and if I am sailing on a rough surface for a while I am sure the nuts stand a good chance of coming loose. That could be catastrophic at speed.

I am also questioning the need to clamp the bearing inners together with nuts and spacer sleeves. If the axle shaft or tube is a snug sliding fit in the bearing and the wheel retained by a washer and pin, wouldn't that be good enough for our loading application, especially for a Mini???

One of the features of the blokart is it's "tool less" assembly. The only tools I carry in the field for my blokart are two 1/2" or 13mm open end/ring spanners for tightening the bolts on the strut ends and mast base, and an 8" shifter for the axle nuts.

Currently for my Mini, I need to have at least a 9/16" oe/ring spanner, 8" shifter and my modified 12" shifter (that I had to fight you to get back).

Going down to a 20mm axle I would only need a 10" shifter if not the 8".

Given Paul's intent with the design of the Mini for it to be an average home builder's economical alternative to a blokart, I think simplicity is the key to it's success.

Do you think that with a 20mm axle shaft, threaded on the outer end to take a nylock nut and the nut tightened so that it just contacts the bearing inner, that the spacer sleeve could be eliminated??? The sleeve of course is another thing that needs to be accurately made on a lathe.

Edit:- Another suggestion. Instead of using 20mm shaft and threading the end, why not use off the shelf bolts or even threaded rod and simply cut to the required length?? End.

Re:- Step Drills. Certainly a most handy tool to have for drilling light gauge material. The one I have is the Medalist Brand which, is it titanium or tungsten coated, has served me well by using with care and lubricant. I did see the other week that our local "All Trades" tool store had P&N brand step drills on sale for around $40. The Sutton brand units are well over $100.

I am interesred to hear more of your thoughts on the above topics Joe. Till then, Adios Amigo, Cisco
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
27 Mar 2009 8:51pm
washer and pin falls into the light is right category, I would use the spacers if youve got em. i always cut in dropoff saw and file to make mine. I cant see a 1" or 20mm nyloc coming undone in a hurry.
Have a look at how I set up Nappy Rush. I think its at the back of your shed somewhere
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
27 Mar 2009 11:46pm
landyacht said...

washer and pin falls into the light is right category, I would use the spacers if youve got em. i always cut in dropoff saw and file to make mine. I cant see a 1" or 20mm nyloc coming undone in a hurry.
Have a look at how I set up Nappy Rush. I think its at the back of your shed somewhere


I have been making my spacer sleeves the same way and measureing with vernier calipers as my micrometer is only a 0-2" unit. Even so I get them very close. Close enough to pass the + or - .002" tolerance allowed by the marking room at the apprentice school.

Despite the accuracy of even the lathe finished sleeves I still find that there is some slight binding in the bearing when the nut is done up tight. So backing the nut off slightly is nearly always required but as you say nylocs are fairly dependable.

Re:- Nappy Rush. She is not sitting at the back of the shed. Quite the contrary. Both Nappy Rush and Diablo are at the forefront of the shed and both of them ask me where their masts and sails are every time I walk past. I say they are coming and they say "Yeah, so is Christmas!!!"

I have been looking at Nappy Rush as well as the poly sail. They are quite obviously the product of a devious mind, right down to the batten tensioners.

This isn't exactly the same mast as the one you took back home is it??


Or is the only difference that the drawing does not show the stopper collar on the top section?? Cheers Cisco
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
28 Mar 2009 10:04pm
Caught out I was very happy with that mast till Wayne forbes turned up , not having raced for 7 months and flogged me in every race till I changed to a yacht with a softer mast.
For Enkel bitjer i made a softer set up that suits the sail better, and that is the mast i duplicated for Nappy Rush.
A girls gotta have a few secrets
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