I have got the general gist of what you are saying but will have to read it a few times to get the detail.
Edit:- Having read it through thoroughly I suggest the following.
With your new plan if the jig is cut to suit the length of the axle, the initial guide plate could be clamped onto the axle with a nut on each side of the plate. This plate could be an extra plate made as a specific part of the welding jig. If the plate happens to be slightly loose with it's fit in the RHS, this will ensure the plate does not fall over and jam when tapping with the electrode to strike the arc.
Also the jig "box" could have a split on opposite sides of one end so that the plate being welded can be clamped in the jig. This set up should ensure the ultimate in accuracy I believe.
End of Edit.
When I clicked to the other forum link it said "invalid attachment specified", so could not view the drawing. Could you private mail me the drawings Joe.
These 1" axles of mine have to go. They are just too heavy and if I am sailing on a rough surface for a while I am sure the nuts stand a good chance of coming loose. That could be catastrophic at speed.
I am also questioning the need to clamp the bearing inners together with nuts and spacer sleeves. If the axle shaft or tube is a snug sliding fit in the bearing and the wheel retained by a washer and pin, wouldn't that be good enough for our loading application, especially for a Mini???
One of the features of the blokart is it's "tool less" assembly. The only tools I carry in the field for my blokart are two 1/2" or 13mm open end/ring spanners for tightening the bolts on the strut ends and mast base, and an 8" shifter for the axle nuts.
Currently for my Mini, I need to have at least a 9/16" oe/ring spanner, 8" shifter and my modified 12" shifter (that I had to fight you to get back


).
Going down to a 20mm axle I would only need a 10" shifter if not the 8".
Given Paul's intent with the design of the Mini for it to be an average home builder's economical alternative to a blokart, I think simplicity is the key to it's success.
Do you think that with a 20mm axle shaft, threaded on the outer end to take a nylock nut and the nut tightened so that it just contacts the bearing inner, that the spacer sleeve could be eliminated??? The sleeve of course is another thing that needs to be accurately made on a lathe.
Edit:- Another suggestion. Instead of using 20mm shaft and threading the end, why not use off the shelf bolts or even threaded rod and simply cut to the required length?? End.
Re:- Step Drills. Certainly a most handy tool to have for drilling light gauge material. The one I have is the Medalist Brand which, is it titanium or tungsten coated, has served me well by using with care and lubricant. I did see the other week that our local "All Trades" tool store had P&N brand step drills on sale for around $40. The Sutton brand units are well over $100.
I am interesred to hear more of your thoughts on the above topics Joe. Till then, Adios Amigo, Cisco