Pipe Bending

> 10 years ago
Reply
Register to post, see what you've read, and subscribe to topics.
grlynch
grlynch
QLD
208 posts
QLD, 208 posts
2 Dec 2011 7:27pm
Seeing as though it has been so quiet here I though i'd ask a question i have been pondering for some time.

What is the best, easiest, cheapest pipe bending method? Specifically i was thinking about around 25mm diameter and light wall, 1mm or so. but this discussion does not have to be limited to that.

From what i have seen/used ranges from the realitively cheap hydraulic press with mandrels. Seems to work OK, but not so much for light pipe. There is a video on youtube with a guy filling the pipe with sand before bending and getting quite good results.

I've also used a custom verson of the copper tube benders which was OK.

Mate of mine suggested just taking the pipe and a drawing to an Exhaust shop and paying them to do it. It is ususlly pretty cheap. Might be the best option as i would imagine a pipe bender would not be the most used tool in the shed!

Any other ideas
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
2 Dec 2011 5:52pm
talk to Chook- he knows a few ways to bend pipe and tube real flash!
aus230
aus230
WA
1660 posts
WA, 1660 posts
2 Dec 2011 5:53pm
Just a warning, using sand is fine but if it is sealed both ends make sure it is very dry first as steam build up can have some nasty consequences.(we had a couple of fatalities on mine site's with steam build up in drill steel's that was blocked both ends. the rod exploded while being heated to bend)
Cheers
aus230
Chook2
Chook2
WA
1249 posts
WA, 1249 posts
2 Dec 2011 6:36pm
Yes you can easily bend tube thickness down to 75 thou of an inch with good dies.

It is important that the die supports the full diameter of the tube so that it doesn't collapse the pipe/ tube as it's bent.

I have a cheap “made in china 12 ton bender” with "galtube pipe" dies (for extra light galv pipe).

I slit a 200mm piece of the next size up tubing, length ways and put ½ under each roller to support the back of the tube where the rollers contact it, so not to leave dents where the rollers run on the back of the pipe.

To bend a bit of forward planning is needed.
Simply tape over the end of the tube you need to bend and fill it with water. Put it vertically in the freezer (we have a 5 draw upright freezer and a 1.55mtr of 32nb fits nicely beside the draws each side) over night and in the morning into the bender and away you go. If the bends are far enough apart you can usually do all that is needed in that length without refreezing between bends. My mate runs "Browns Ice-creams" in Esperance, so I'm sorted for the longer lengths in thin walled tube as well.
The ice supports the tube beautifully and a perfect bend results.

If you are bending two pieces and require them to be bent to the exact same angle, measure from the top of the die, to the frame of the bender with a tape and bend the second one to the same measurement and it will be perfect.

I have even bent aluminium arrow shafts with ice, into 50mm coil springs using brake pipe mandrels and left the flights on. That gets people guessing.

Another neat trick to remove dents from my model helicopter mufflers is to do the same as above. Tape over the outlet and fill with water and freeze. As they expand it pops the dent out. Sometimes it has taken several goes to completely remove the dent. Works a treat on motorbike fuel tanks as well, but keep a good eye on them, as the expansion can do damage if not monitored.

Hope this helps, cheers Chook
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
2 Dec 2011 9:03pm
aus230 said...

Just a warning, using sand is fine but if it is sealed both ends make sure it is very dry first as steam build up can have some nasty consequences.(we had a couple of fatalities on mine site's with steam build up in drill steel's that was blocked both ends. the rod exploded while being heated to bend)
Cheers
aus230


you have to remember too- that drill rods used in mining operations have been subjected to horrific amounts of percussion as they are just oversized versions of a hammerdrill, the used drill rod is of very tough steel- but will have microscopic stress cracks throughout its entire length.
when they are discarded by mining companies they are not suited for anything much more than fenceposts or similar.
Under stress there is a good chance they may shatter.

if you must mess about with old drill rods- flush them through with running water- A-to confirm they are not blocked
B- to reduce the amount of oily residue inside them,
c- there is a (small) chance there might be some explosives residue inside the drill rod (it has happened!)

the "diamond drilling" rods that are sometimes used for making landyachts are a different story- they do not cop the percussion- only rotary forces- so dont usually have the stress fractures that the percussion types suffer from.
(but flush and clean out the diamond drill rods well anyway!

Stephen.
grlynch
grlynch
QLD
208 posts
QLD, 208 posts
3 Dec 2011 12:15am
aus230 said...

Just a warning, using sand is fine but if it is sealed both ends make sure it is very dry first as steam build up can have some nasty consequences.(we had a couple of fatalities on mine site's with steam build up in drill steel's that was blocked both ends. the rod exploded while being heated to bend)
Cheers
aus230


interestingly the youtube video actually fills the pipe with water then sand so it packs better (
). Although he does not use heat.
grlynch
grlynch
QLD
208 posts
QLD, 208 posts
3 Dec 2011 12:17am
interesting info chook with the ice tecnique. although i don't really have a freezer big enough to do that.

Can you please post a photo of the bender, sound like it is different to what i am picturing, or have seen before?

Thanks
aus230
aus230
WA
1660 posts
WA, 1660 posts
2 Dec 2011 11:15pm
sorry I was referring to hot bends.
grlynch
grlynch
QLD
208 posts
QLD, 208 posts
3 Dec 2011 8:22am
aus230 said...

sorry I was referring to hot bends.


Actually it's a really valid point. I'm not sure i would have considered that if i was using heat.
Chook2
Chook2
WA
1249 posts
WA, 1249 posts
3 Dec 2011 8:36am
Yes I also miss understood you, as I always bend without heat.

My bender is just like the one in the clip but I bought light wall pipe dies from "One Steel" a long time ago for it.

The shot at 5 min 42 sec in the clip, is where you measure from the top of the die radius, back to the bender frame to make identical bends if doing repetitive bends that must match. Like 4 x 90 degree bends when making a gate or two hand rails etc. This measurment is great when using the bender laying on it's side for longer lengths as the dial indicator won't be of any use.

At 6.54 mins you can see the dimples that the roller has caused on the back of the pipe. It just looks crap, so this is why I place the 200mm 1/2 sleeve of a size larger tube under the roller (on top of the pipe) so this doesn't happen. Just position the sleeve so it will clear the die when bending.

Sorry for the confusion, Chook
sabydent
sabydent
360 posts
360 posts
3 Dec 2011 11:05am
Supposed to be -30 degrees next week, I guess I should get my bending done.
Nikrum
Nikrum
TAS
1972 posts
TAS, 1972 posts
3 Dec 2011 4:25pm
Hey there Mr 'dent, Where you been?? Any real sailing in as yet??
Ron
Please Register, or first...
Topics Subscribe Reply