Starting to build my Class 5

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Kody
Kody
QLD
190 posts
QLD, 190 posts
13 May 2008 1:03am
What a top job Paul has done in providing all the details for building the LLMini. I certainly appreciate all the time he has spent and extend my thanks for his tremendous effort.
I now have all the materials and gear to start construction on my own C5 next week. The steel for the frame is 60.3mm diameter Duragal pipe with a wall thickness of 3.6mm. The frame will be of the trailing "Y" configuration and will have split axles for ease of transport. The joining of the axles is something unique and I don't know if it will be totally successful. However, I am very keen to try it. If it fails, then I can simply weld the structue as one integral unit. That's if it's still in a salvageable condition. If the design does work to my expectations then I will have a very practicable and beautiful chassis.
If you all would like me to run a building program the same as Paul has done, please let me know. I certainly dont wish to steal Pauls' thunder and "butt in" where I'm not wanted.
The construction does require a lathe so it may exclude some (many?) of you from building to this design, but it will indeed be great reading. Almost all of the machining will be in the axle joins but a single one piece style can be used instead if necessary. Needless to say, there will be lots of photos to show/explain how to do it.

Kody
hills
hills
SA
1622 posts
SA, 1622 posts
13 May 2008 6:52am
Kody said...
[
If you all would like me to run a building program the same as Paul has done, please let me know. I certainly dont wish to steal Pauls' thunder and "butt in" where I'm not wanted.

Kody


Absolutely, I'm very keen to see the build!! That's exactly why Paul started the constuctin section.
lachlan3556
lachlan3556
VIC
1066 posts
VIC, 1066 posts
13 May 2008 12:03pm
I'd be surprised if a few here weren't a little sad if you didn't post a build-up thread.

Dont forget the photos and updates, we'll be very interested in following your construction as with all builds. Good luck mate!
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
13 May 2008 6:14pm
Love to see your thread on building a different style of Class 5....
Maybe do 2 threads like Paul ....
one for "The building of" and the other "For Q & A" .....
That way the main thread is unbroken for others to read.
hills
hills
SA
1622 posts
SA, 1622 posts
13 May 2008 6:51pm
That's a great idea, I suspect there's going to be stacks of questions, like "how much would I have to spend to get a half decent lathe??"
Kody
Kody
QLD
190 posts
QLD, 190 posts
13 May 2008 10:29pm
Ok, I will begin the construction of the C5 next week. I will start a new thread devoted only to the construction and another one for questions and answers. I guess the very first questions will be about lathes. I will try and answer this one for you now.
It can be very difficult to find a used (and loved) lathe. Those who have one, never give them up. A lathe has long been regarded as the King of Tools. Whilst it is better to have a "big" lathe, there are many benefits for having a "small" lathe. So what constitutes a "big" or "small" lathe?
For the home workshop, I would suggest that a 7" lathe as the smallest size to buy. The 7" figure refers to the largest diameter (in inches) that can be placed in the lathe. Unfortunately, for this diameter, only the very ends can be machined. The better way to dimension a lathe is to give the largest diameter that can be fitted over the Cross Slide. For my Myford, this diameter is just over 4 inches, (4.032"). Now that we have the metric system (cough-choke-gasp) the equivalent is given in millimeters. The largest size lathe IMO for the home workshop, would be about 6" or 150mm. This is the diameter that fits over the cross slide.
More important than size of lathe is having a long travel on the cross slide and having "Tee" slots on the top of the cross slide itself. The Myford lathes have this Tee slot feature. This enables an enormous amount of work to be performed that another same size lathe (without the slots) cant do. A smaller lathe with Tee slots is far more versatile than a bigger lathe with no Tee slots.
Next, is length of the lathe. Always buy the biggest boat you can and always buy the longest lathe you can. The Myford comes in two lengths, 18" and 30". The Myford also come in bigger sizes (and with a bigger price). I often had to machine the extreme end of the double barrels of under and over shot guns. For this work a long lathe is a must. A question for you to ponder over (for those who already have a lathe). How do you hold a set of under and over barrels in a lathe and very precisely, machine the ends of the barrels? The end face must be perfectly square to the axis of each barrel. Just a small point, the axis of the two barrels are not parallel to each other.
This brings me to the last and most important point of all. It matters not, how skillful you are at machining with a lathe or other machine tool. The most important tallent to have is a versatile imagination. A lot of work may take 90% of the time to set the job up and only 10% of the time to actually machine it. It's the 90% part that is often the most difficult. If you get get stuck or have trouble in making a part or anything else, dont hesitate to ask for help. When I was teaching engineering in a college in the USA, I told the students that I can teach them everything about machining but I cant teach you how to use your imagination, you have to open that door yourselves. Half the class (15 students) went to the director and requested that he get me to teach them how to use their imagination.
So how much would one spend on a lathe? Thats easy to answer, you spend the same amount that you would spend on your beloved wife, maybe even a bit more. Just make sure the used lathe is in very, very good condition. Be very careful about the cheaper Chinese imports. The quality of the entire lathe and accessories is often woeful.

Kody / Joe
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