Boat construction for bluewater cruising

Hi draly. There are guys on this forum that will certainly give their opinion. For my two bobs worth. I reckon
Americans build boats right. I am impressed with the Island Packet, a really solid large boat. Just sayin'.

That is definitely a beautiful boat and now is on our list. Downside is the bolt on keel.

I agree that a proper osmosis treatment can resolve any issues and I wouldn't write off a boat with a small amount of osmosis, you just need to get to it relatively quickly

This is the boat I have been thinking about with respect to the glass over strip plank. https://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/atkinson-45-foot-centre-cockpit/205111

One's plans and desires would weigh in the balance.
Planning to circumnavigate, go to coral infested waters, rocky shores, Alaska, Antarctica, aluminium hull, no doubt.

Fiberglass, depends who laid it and what kind they used, like Vinyl Ester Resin does not have osmosis problems.

Timber? Hmm. Not in the tropics.

Steel, hmm. It's an option.

Concrete? Why?

How about a Halberg Rassy or it's ilk if one got plenty of time and fond of big heavy keels.Definitely not bolted on!

One could pick one up in the states for peanuts with plenty left over for refitting?

For ease of sail handling, why not a ketch, yawl or schooner?

Is it Draly or Dr Aly?
www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/sailing-boats/cavalier-45/208460

A bit on the pricier side, but we looked her over earlier this year - at Lincoln - ask Southace if interested.

rob

Select to expand quote

Concepcion said..
Is it Draly or Dr Aly?
rob

read the whole name backwards ... all will be clear

Hi Sam,
Our boat Yvonne is cedar strip planked epoxy out & in. Local built. Before I bought her I checked history of builder, boat etc, got a specialist survey and so on. I also checked with multiple builders and websites - usual stuff - forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/139855-epoxy-over-cedar-strip-planking-what-to-look-for-in-a-used-boat/
We haven't had a problem with hull, and I don't expect one - perhaps that's luck. We've used and I've probably abused her - hit things, anchor, dock etc. What I did notice is that all construction experts have their preferences. Some will swear by others loath. What convinced me in the end was worst case scenario - if timber core is exposed to water - it is mostly easily repairable - probably much more so than other construction types (not all). On the upside you've got strength/durability etc. but all this does sound a bit like conviction bias! I'd have "The Doctor" in a heart beat - ps Loose Change I'm sorry you missed my attempt at humour.
rob

One thing to remember is that any boat that is not fiberglass is likely not a production boat built by a known manufacturer.
This can make it more difficult to insure. Especially in the age you are looking at. There will be exceptions but something to check out before pulling the trigger.

As far as the insurance maffia is concerned, they repeatedly ignored my input about the manufacturer of my yacht. It was a small company not a production-line type monster. The buggers simply put down 'unknown' into the appropriate column despite my repeated call to list the known manufacturer. They said, 'there is no listing of such company in our records!??? (so what?)
I had no repercussions - as far as l know - about this fact, like being penalised in the premium or so, however l could not be sure what their undisclosed or secret guidelines are.
Nevertheless - it is obvious even to Blind Freddy - the yacht was carefully designed by Adams and Radford in the late seventies and built extremely well in the late eighties, much better, according to sailors, riggers, shipwrights or other professionals who come into contact with it than any production yacht of the era, the insurers are utterly ignorant about this facts.
They are primarily profit seeking, looking after their own interest, NOT THEIR CUSTOMERS. Period.

I am surprised what l read recently about boat insurance in the US.
It is so expensive for cruisers who roam the high seas on limited budgets that most are sailing without full insurance.

Been looking at the Halberg Rassys lately. Seem like tough,well built glass yachts with a good layout.

But 37 is huge anyway. Went on a HR 38 yesterday and it was massive. Thinking of a 31 for a couple for us (my wife thinks it's too big and prefers the 29!)

I'd go glass with a solid, reliable keel attachment. You don't want to be hauling it out every time you touch the sand.

Cheers
Bristle

Select to expand quote

Trek said..
I think #1 would be absolutely NO bolt on keel as has been said above. When blue water cruising sooner or later you will hit something and you want to know for sure the boat wont break and capsize instead of wondering if the keel bolts are ok,

sooner or later ? in morteon bay there are to types of sailors those that have gone aground and liars

Perhaps if you read the specs sheet it would answer those questions. There is a plethora of data about HE's on the net.

By the way, there is nothing wrong with bolt on keels as long as they were designed and built properly.

I think amel super maruma are also bolted on keels.
They are the bees knees for long distance blue water cruising.

Dear Sam. It's ok.
I think you aversion to bolt on keels are developed by bad press and misunderstanding of the facts.
I am not here to defend the concept of bolt on keels, l am simply trying to help you not to dismiss perfectly well built yachts on the bases of personal aversion to something perfectly good, proven and serviceable.
I own an Adams 28 with a bolt on keel of some 1600kg.


I had two mishaps, one in Canaipa Passage and the second one when l tried to relocate Spectacle Island. Nothing happened, a scratch in the leading edge, that's all.
The cruisers, designed by a reputable designer are strong enough to suffer a lot of abuse while the modern designs with nothing in mind but performance or profit are the culprits of the bad press.
Most of the yachts hauled out and or stored, are standing on their keels and lots of them are bolt on keels. Most of them, in fact.
There is the shoal draught with daggerboard like this one, which is not a bolt on design,



The traditional 'English keel'

....the phone froze on me...

The 'English keel'
or bilge keel is also bolted on if l am not mistaken.

For blue water sailing any deep keel will do unless one is planning to cruise in coral infested Qld.

The ability to sail into the wind is one of the brawbacks of the full keel design with the sluggishness of the keel bolted rudder and the prominent prop walk of the same design. However, hitting something big and staying afloat is most likely with this type of keel.

The bolt on keel, as long as it is a conventional design with good lift/drag characteristics without any fancy appertures like wings or huge ungainly bulbs, which would act as anchors on the keel if caught by rocks or fishing nets, overloading the keel bolts, should go a long way without any problems if built properly.
This old thread might be of interest: