I am doing oil and filter changes on our two cars.

My preferred lube oil is Bimrose All Seasons which is particularly good for older engines and I use it in my boat engine too. Their products are top quality.

www.bimrose.com.au/

So I have bought the oil from our local distributor which was $50 for a 5 litre pack which is no more than you pay for any other quality oil, then I go to the shop where the farmers shop for my oil filters.

They are for a Fairmont and a Corolla and I say to the guy I want the best quality ones. Ah, he says, best quality?? He then informs me that Donaldson and Baldwin now put out filters with a synthetic filtration medium that can filter down to 2 microns without reducing oil flow and can thereby double the service life of the oil.

www.donaldson.com/en-us/errors/404/

http://www.baldwinfilters.com.au/

The engineers among us will now retort and say "You should always stick to the recommended oil change periods no matter what!!" and I agree.

However if there is a better filter available it will logically follow that it will improve the lubricating performance of the oil. That is a good thing.

I have dealt with this guy before and I trust his advice. He related some examples of the performance of the filters and said that he used them in his Falcon and after 20,000 klms he dropped his oil and it looked almost new.

The filters are about 3 times the price and not available in all sizes but if you can get one for your boat engine I think it is worth the little extra expence. The marine environment is probably as harsh as construction and mine sites.

Just thought I would pass that bit of info on as we all like to get the best out of our marine engines. Cheers Cisco.

sirgallivant said..

Oil and filter is peanuts compared to major engine work.

That is precisely my point. Why not spend first class on oil and filters so as to avoid "Major engine work"???????????????????????

And not to mention that good old deisel oil goes black, sometimes quickly, other times less so, then you have acidic carbonised oil. If I'm not rushed, I use some engine flush, then drain the oil, turn over the engine a few times to empty the oil pump, pour 250ml clean oil in to flush out the remaining old stuff, then add yah new filter and oil. It's a bit over the top, but the sump oil stays looking clean for a cou of months. +1 for the idea of regular oil and filter changes. Crawling round the engine also means regular checks of coolant pipes, connections etc.

HG02 said..
From what I recall oil goes acidic after a period of use I can't see filters removing that.

I did mention this to the guy in the shop.

Its good to have knowledgeable help on this subject.

Whats the recommended oil to keep my old Volvo MD 2003 going? And I guess those Donaldson & Baldwin Oil Filters are what I should replace the existing one with? I guess I can get them at Repco or similar?

Advice appreciated.

Good mate of mine runs a diesel injection company....

For older diesels always use single weight oil ....

Modern diesels with turbo/common rail injection....use nothing but the recommended, - a good part of his business is fixing injection systems on modern engines from "mechanics" that used different oils etc, because they knew better than the company that spent millions designing and testing the engine they sold.

Ramona said..

Probably have to go to a truck place for the filter. Try to use a mono oil if you can, 30 grade or 40. Or the 15 - 40 multigrade from K-mart LF/LC I think it is for $12 for 4 litres is fine.

I am just not quite getting you there Ramona. On the one hand you say...Try to use a mono oil if you can, 30 grade or 40.

Then you say...Or the 15 - 40 multigrade from K-mart LF/LC I think it is for $12 for 4 litres is fine.

At $3 per litre you will not be getting quality oil. Caltex Havoline, which is a quality oil, was $11 per litre last time I bought it at a servo. Bimrose oil is $1 per litre less but I believe a better quality oil.

The better the quality of oil you put in your engine, the longer it is going to last and there is no disputing that principle.

That is interesting re mono grade oils and zinc content.

I would certainly trust Penrite oils.