I have not been able to get my furler to spin. It does turn a few degrees.






You may be able to see that I have two lines that come back to the cockpit from the furler. The thicker white with green fleck is the normal furling line the other is a dirtier white and green fleck also. This one is thinner in diameter and connects to a wire which also runs back to the cockpit. The third photo show this arm when press down to the deck would have pulled a pin out which would then allow the furler to spin.
This my theory. I have felt a pin which can be pulled out a little and is on a spring. It returns to its original position in the furler when I release it.
The pin is held in place by a nut surrounding it.
I would like to undo this nut and all the other screws. I have not done this before. I am guessing that the forestay is surrounded by the fuller and I am in no danger if I dismantal the fuller. Do you agree?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

You should be able to disassemble and remove the drum for service without effecting the forestay. You should grease the bottom bearing at the drum as well as the to swivel bearing at the top. It always pays to attach a halyard to the bow as a safety just in case you have a problem with the forestay. Some times you will need to release the forestay if you need to the get the drum off and release the top if you need to take the swivel off. This can all turn turtle if the stay ends are to large to slide over. You can always do what I did 2 weeks ago, that was get a Yacht rigger to do it for you.

Jode5 said..
You should be able to disassemble and remove the drum for service without effecting the forestay. You should grease the bottom bearing at the drum as well as the to swivel bearing at the top. It always pays to attach a halyard to the bow as a safety just in case you have a problem with the forestay. Some times you will need to release the forestay if you need to the get the drum off and release the top if you need to take the swivel off. This can all turn turtle if the stay ends are to large to slide over. You can always do what I did 2 weeks ago, that was get a Yacht rigger to do it for you.

Hi Jode,
That's just what I wanted to hear. Thank you.
Great advice to attach the halyard.

Best use Inox or similar in marine areas. WD can attract salt.

Hi BB.
What brand and model furler is it?
If possible track down a manual on the net.
It seems that every furler maker tried to reinvent the wheel and come up with a different system.
Some have delrin sleeve bearings, Some have bearings with plastic ball races and some have stainless steel bearings.
Smaller ones don't really have a proper bearing at all.
Some makers suggest dousing with fresh water (my Plastimo) is enough and some suggest a full disassemble and (of course) replacement with expensive parts.
On most the drum can be removed but on others the upper swivel cannot be pulled past the lower swage.
I will add a link to manual for my furler so you can envision what they are like inside.

I have not been able to get my furler to spin. It does turn a few degrees.


There are a few cause to a binding furler, but first your locking pin.
I have never seen this set up but it would be pretty easy to hold it in the disengaged position and then check the operation of the furler up close. If you can eliminate that as the cause, then look for something else.

The other causes for a binding furler could be:
Foresail tension too tight. This puts extra stress on (worn) bearings and binds thm
Foresail tension too loose.
Halyard catching on the upper swivel.
Incorrect lead out of the furling line from the drum so it pulls the drum off to one side instead of giving a rotation motion.

If you can get some one to lend a hand back at the cockpit while you observe the action at the drum it will help you work things out.

Here is the manual.
You have to go through a process to prove that you are a human to access it. Quite safe though.
All the best
gary
www.theyachtshop.co.uk/pdf/s_series_GB.pdf?__cf_chl_captcha_tk__=33dfffc845aa0d3754c9507981f3a8aa5b8237db-1605567326-0-AbNkgwhN9ho3eX2aLMmPQrffPts88e98frjh8TTWlr2D6I-JQhDxyMdyhxgHDiN7gQjg5XQ1NjCbynZo6rH0Yue3S-ngVa9miJd8I3E6MaFRq2OQ-74M0un3Bs7nSkAQcKTsurmLGi1db2xC-bofWyb432EIsdlT4V9wHcX3VjKvKYG0SLpDwiT1kg4Bxra-xLHT5Dh6c93CZe1dmGf3lwfmlcOigBZCH5CKae2DUmixf1fKl3gncOIPFi9tSSLuF6pfyUgG0GnbNaMasxemAVVnCFVy5HwXibt0lZrfIdc7l1r7rsSBsLdzharZifhPfb2ip0dVPpy1PhTRXq0-ML-JSc9LngUa3o4lH3I3PG8kwD2F8scLE-CB2WR0PGTYIVgT3MWnOhbEDGUsLJx_A3ThKlHGro6a8-pOyq8bdjWxeQ9pC431iBZ6mNyzBSiRdGm-tN84M-Xng9IHncLvR926KYSFvLKPY4EKHCwsjJuceXC4Th-nQkb2S8MGqk9469kbJxcqtYpK-2N46YXZ37MX-9L26_yqQuJocuFBtQUR

When you think about it, it's the forestay furler and the windlass which are guaranteed to get salt sprayed at best, or drenched at worst every time you sail.
My windlass twice over the last few years has refused to start due to simple salt buildup, most likely shoddy fresh water cleaning practices. Whip the top off and give it a good spray and clean and it's perfect again.

I still find Sailkote to be the best for any sliding parts like mast cars, tracks and hinges, it's just a pity its so bloody expensive. Torlon plastics in the blocks gets silicon spray, Inox for all the metal bits.

Bundeenabuoy said..
Back on the boat.
I attached one spinnaker line to the bow and another spinnaker line to the swivel to lift it up out of the way.
I way hopeful that removing the pin would solve my problem but no luck there.
I remove the four bolts holding the furler together to discover forty years of sh-t in there.
Cleaned it out and soaked the bearing in WD40. I will give it a couple of days to perform a miracle, but I double it.
I feel I did all I could.
I found a ton of canned food dated 2008 under both settee's and the Garmin GPS has a card in it with the same dated. I suspect the fuller hasn't beeb used for a long time.The rigger hopefully will replace the fuller before xmas.
The photo shows the dodger fleshly painted, the raft cradle removed, the hatch repaired, a winch serviced, the water pump connected and the gearbox coupling replaced.
Still plenty to understand and keep me busy. i.e. radar, single band radio, inverter and Fleming self steering.

BB,
That dodger actually looks really good now, it actually fits the boat in a surprising kind of way.
Nice job.

Cleaned it out and soaked the bearing in WD40.

what type of bearings are we talking about, BB?

PS. the boat looks very nice!!!!!

gary

Bundeenabuoy said..

garymalmgren said..
Cleaned it out and soaked the bearing in WD40.

what type of bearings are we talking about, BB?

PS. the boat looks very nice!!!!!

gary

Hi Gary
It hard to see but it surrounds the stay?
I will photo.

I have not tried to undo any of the bolts under the s/s plate that the furling line sits on.
Should I try to remove the arms that hold the furling line in? or anything else under there?
There are also two nuts at the top of that cylinder .
Do I try to undo them?

garymalmgren said..
Cleaned it out and soaked the bearing in WD40.

what type of bearings are we talking about, BB?

PS. the boat looks very nice!!!!!

gary

Material of bearings? Rusty steel? If it is rusty try soaking in oxalic acid. (Timber brightener). However if it is a standard steel/stainless bearing you might be able to get a new replacement from a specialist bearing supplier.

Bundeenabuoy said..
Profurl 320 installed
Very happy with Bryce at Infinity Rigging.

What size boat, BB? I'm trying to decide between a 290 or 320 for my Currawong 30.

Kinora said..

Bundeenabuoy said..
Profurl 320 installed
Very happy with Bryce at Infinity Rigging.

What size boat, BB? I'm trying to decide between a 290 or 320 for my Currawong 30.

I was offered the 320 second hand but never used so it is a bit of overkill, but so is everything else on my boat which is a Davidson 32.
I am no authority but from what I have read the 290 is plenty.
Best wishes with it.

Hi BB
Just out of curiosity, did you check the bearings and discover anything about your old furler?
What type was it BTW?

gary