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Jib sheet cars.

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Created by southace 1 month ago, 29 Sep 2019
kurt88
NSW, 102 posts
3 Oct 2019 5:11PM
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I've been using friction rings instated of jib cars for over a year now its a slightly different setup and was only meant to be temporary after ordering a new jib to tack though the staysail gap the jib tracks I wanted where out of stock but its work so well I'm sticking with it.
The jibs sheets run through the friction rings back to a block and pad eye and up to the winches, the friction ring control line is attached to a block on the chainplate and runs back to turning block and up to 2 small winches behind the cockpit which where already there, I can adjust everything from the cockpit no need to go forward, the jib sheets have never fouled during tacking the whole set up cost less than $50 and didn't need to drill any holes








r13
NSW, 89 posts
3 Oct 2019 9:11PM
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Yes those friction rings are a good device - we have them on our jib sheeting systems. Athwartship tracks and deadeye on a slider which is able to be locked into the holes in the tracks - barber hauler through the deadeye the end of it having the friction ring. So the jib sheet goes through the friction ring and the sheeting angle is adjusted by the slider and the leech / foot tension adjusted by the barber hauler. This works great but imho only because the solidly fixed slider deadeye is close to the friction ring and it really helps to keep the jib stable.

Jolene
1066 posts
3 Oct 2019 7:40PM
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Gave the rings a go to improve my staysail sheeting angle but I canned the idea because of the way they flog around on a flapping sheet. I reckon I was pretty close to loosing a cabin window.

shaggybaxter
QLD, 1853 posts
4 Oct 2019 6:04AM
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Select to expand quote
Stockie said..

shaggybaxter said..


southace said..



shaggybaxter said..




2bish said..











rumblefish said..












2bish said..













Donk107 said..
Hi Southace

I think that Rumblefish is talking about replacing the tracks and cars with a adjustable friction ring system like this for the head sail sheets



On the Jenneau 349 in the video the main sheets run through the same rings but they don't have to

Regards Don















I'm interested but I couldn't follow that video explanation at all. That guy must be the worst videographer on YouTube!














Google 'floating jib leads'













Thanks, so they're sort of a barber hauler with some fore/aft adjustment, is that right?












Yeah, that video was a bit weird, he had run his mainsheet as well as the jib sheets through the antal rings, which was screwing with my head a bit.
You do want some fore and aft adjustment, so without going all nuts aka a TP52 setup, simply bias your outer pad eye forrard. So when you crack sheets and ease the inner barber hauler the clew moves forrard as it moves outboard.


At the other end you need two jammers, one for the inner and outer barber hauler. Mine are situated so you can pick up either sides winch for when you need some mechanical assistance for tightening or easing, but if you have spare winches leave it aligned fore-and-aft, that saves the need for another turning block.
Ignore the small clam cleat holding the red sheet, that is for holding the jib sheet when it's off the winch, it's the two little deck jammers forrard that are the barber haulers.








10 tones of cruising hull cruising at 7 knots under sail is all I want to achieve shaggy, light breeze she's a motor sailer with 60 hp Perkins. Heavy weather I want to head for shelter. I understand the Barbour hauler floating set up now but for me I just think the 2 meter track minus the existing extension track is perfect for my tub. I prefer deck room to walk around on than have all the trimming controls. Different courses for different horses! Thanks for showing a good example anyways of your set up. I have been walking round the marina checking out all setups and now feel that mine is superior for the yacht I have. It's just a shame they didn't curve the track to the cabin lines rather than fitting it strait.




All good mate, and I agree, it would be sooo good to get the track off the deck.



Shaggy, thanks for the info on the fairlead/barberhauler set up. Food for thought, thanks. I used one of those wichard slippery rings in lieu of the pulley blocks that continued to pack it in, on my kite snuffer!
I spliced it in with Dyneema, works beautifully now!
Cheers Richard


G'day Richard,
That's a great idea. My sock does exactly the same thing. I didn't think of a low friction ring. I'll have to stop in this morning and buy myself one.
Thanks!

southace
QLD, 4133 posts
9 Nov 2019 7:51PM
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Finaly bit the bullet and ordered the new Ronstan track that takes the old jib cars, tempted to buy the new cars in the future. Ronstan total pain in the butt, the new track holes was just slightly different but I still managed to nail it just. I tap the threads into the deck fix 3/16 washers between track and deck so the track can drain , bad design , cost from Arnold's boat bits was $130 per 1.5 meter tracks. Now I have 6 meters of old Ronstan track for sale or into bin.!








southace
QLD, 4133 posts
9 Nov 2019 9:32PM
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Select to expand quote
southace said..
Finaly bit the bullet and ordered the new Ronstan track that takes the old jib cars, tempted to buy the new cars in the future. Ronstan total pain in the butt, the new track holes was just slightly different but I still managed to nail it just. I tap the threads into the deck fix 3/16 washers between track and deck so the track can drain , bad design , cost from Arnold's boat bits was $130 per 1.5 meter tracks. Now I have 6 meters of old Ronstan track for sale or into bin.!















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