Mainsheet traveller repair

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MattM14
MattM14
NSW
190 posts
NSW, 190 posts
11 May 2015 11:05am















Whilst my yacht got through the recent heavy weather quite well it did take it's toll on the mainsheet traveller when the mainsheet worked it's way loose. So I have a repair to complete as the picture shows and would like some input on the best way to proceed.
Let’s take any comments about the lack of varnish on the teak as read
Originally I thought where the block of teak at the end of the traveller has become separated from the rest of the traveller support (where the screwdriver is poking in the picture above) was all one piece and the wood had split. However on closer inspection I now believe that these are two separate pieces of wood which must have been bonded in some way and whatever this was has given up due to age/weathering etc. The block has also been held on by at s/steel screw that goes through the base plate of the flat turning block in the picture (on the inboard side, out of shot) into the traveller track and another screw from the cam cleat the secures the traveller rope on the aft side of the traveller (also out of shot). The screw through the track is pretty solid and will possibly not come out without some persuasion which will likely see it break off.
So I am thinking one of 2 things;
1) Using a generous amount of suitable epoxy glue, re-glue the block of wood in place and assist in this by placing a s/steel screw on the diagonal through the end of the block into the traveller support beneath it.
2) Remove the detached block and have a s/steel bracket knocked up that matches that size and shape of the wood into which the flat turning block could be secured on the top. this could then overlap the solid timber of the traveller support and be secured by s/steel through bolts.
All the load is toward the opposite side of the boat. The blocks do not have to absorb the force should the traveller slide at speed to the end of the traveller track as there are stoppers attached to the track itself that take of that.
Obviously the port side traveller control is the same set up and so even though it hasn't had these issues yet it is probably well on the way to it so this will also need attention.
Thanks in advance for your input.



samsturdy
samsturdy
NSW
1659 posts
NSW, 1659 posts
11 May 2015 11:21am

Hi MatM14. It certainly looks like they are two separate pieces. The pattern on the top piece doesn't match
that on the bottom. Being a practical sort of bloke myself I think I'd go with the first option as
long as you are satisfied it would take the strain it would be subjected to (and I think it would)
then it seems to be the simplest (KISS) solution.
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
11 May 2015 11:46am
Remove the horizontal pulley block and I wouldn't be surprised you find a bolt underneath it that goes through to the bottom piece of timber, the separation would have been caused by the timber drying out.
Clean up the joining faces, re glue with epoxy, re tighten bolt and put it all back together.
andy59
andy59
QLD
1156 posts
QLD, 1156 posts
11 May 2015 1:51pm
Gizmo said..
Remove the horizontal pulley block and I wouldn't be surprised you find a bolt underneath it that goes through to the bottom piece of timber, the separation would have been caused by the timber drying out.
Clean up the joining faces, re glue with epoxy, re tighten bolt and put it all back together.




good advice. I would also replace those countersunk screws with round head or cheesehead screws it would only cost less than a coffee.
UncleBob
UncleBob
NSW
1314 posts
NSW, 1314 posts
11 May 2015 5:06pm
Gizmo said..
Remove the horizontal pulley block and I wouldn't be surprised you find a bolt underneath it that goes through to the bottom piece of timber, the separation would have been caused by the timber drying out.
Clean up the joining faces, re glue with epoxy, re tighten bolt and put it all back together.



Tend to agree with that, and if no screws or bolts under the block put in two that go down as far as possible into the base timber. I also would replace the countersunk screws with pan or cheese head screws, really an easy job
Remember, use fresh epoxy, not something you have had lying around for a while.
Cheers
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
11 May 2015 6:38pm
Selleys araldite (super strength) is a good epoxy glue for this type thing.

NOT the 5 minute version, clear, etc ....... ONLY the super strength.
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