Finally

An old piston..

welsh said..
Bravo champ. Sounded like a long arduous process glad it's finally over for you

Happy days my dear Fellows.

Yes, and I will kindly accept your suggestions. No more lucas oil **** in it. Had a good chat with Philip Lulich ( Yanmar mechanic who reconditioned the engine) who told me the same. He recommended this oil.

Thank you for kind suggestions and care.


Keep in touch

I have a question, so looked at the recommended oil which is mono 30. I have choice, Valvoline around 10-12 bucks a litre or wolf western half price 6 bucks per litre. I have never used valvoline or gulf western oils, only used liqui Molly in my Saab. I know many people like Penrith oil but is more expensive than valvoline. Is there any fellow tiger here that has the beast YSE8 and which oil is he using?

If gulf western will do the job than why not get 20L for 120 bucks and share with the neighbour how also has Yanmar 3 cylinders engine.

Gulf western is made in Australia and I prefer to support the local community and businesses.

Thank you.

Serb, the cheapest form of insuring that the engine will perform to its best is to buy the best oil, not the cheapest. The rebuilder offered his 2 bobs worth, the price difference is nothing in the scheme of things.

Serb1980 said..
Understood,

but which one is the best? If you ask 100 people they all have different opinions. It is just too funny. Every body has different theories. I want to put the best oil in the beast, but is the best one the most expensive? This is soooo funny.

I will go with valvoline than.

Mate, I know what you are saying and agree with you, which is why I use recognised quality brands. If I remember correctly older Yanmah's use a 30 weight mono grade, so yeah, I would stick with that.

The Yanmar stuff is around $40 for 5 litres, get it from the dealer when you pick up your impellers and anodes.

Mono 30 MINERAL oil, not synthetic.

Buy a quality brand and change it 6 monthly.

Thanks tigers. The specifications for old Yanmar is CF oil, non detergent mineral oil. Change every 6 months and happy days. Why do synthetic oils not work well in marine diesels?
The problem with using high-spec synthetic oil in older diesel engine designs is that it can quickly cause bore polishing. Bore polishing leads to excessive oil consumption by the engine and reduced power output, and it's very difficult to rectify.

If you're in a foreign port and you urgently need engine oil then look for quality branded mineral oil. You need 15W40 grade, with a spec to API CF-4, which is the official replacement for API CD. Note that the can might say "API SL/CF" - don't worry; that's the one you want. The "SL" bit refers to the spec for petrol engines; the "CF" bit refers to the spec for diesel engines.

So in conclusion, just in case you've skimmed this page. A good semi-synthetic is certainly better than no oil at all and if I had no other choice then I'd put it in in my trusty old Yanmar. The next day, though, I'd be flushing it out and replacing it with mineral oil.

All clear now!

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

To be fair, he has been bitten previously and possibly seeking confirmation from a broader audience.

Oils aint Oils Sam.

Ramona said..

Magpieuser said..
Professional who actually works on engines and makes them actually run. Probably for a long time - makes oil suggestion, no doubt based on a variety of actual experience....

Client immediately looks for cheaper option and asks around on internet forum..... (having just spent 1000's with professional)

I don't get it???

A professional would have put in a running in oil! Then told the client to change to a 30 grade oil after 50 hours or so.

But isn't mono 30 a 'running in oil' anyway?

ie. basic oil, no friction modifiers etc.

Either way my guess is to satisfy the engine builders requirements for their warranty you actually use and do what they suggest.

hipopp said..
buying a yacht with an old yse8...bit noisy but goes ok..is Nulon additive a safe option?

Don't waste your money. Stick with a 30 grade mono or use a 40 grade if you think it's going to make a difference.

Yep what they said

Use the cheapest oil suitable for your engine. No additives. The rings need to get bedded in. It will never wear out in our lifetimes. Corrosion will kill it eventually but we will be long gone!