There were lots of great boards you listed. You have mentioned what you would like to achieve, stick with that.
Nothing replaces being ON the water feelings, so go the demo with your likely conditions. That will speak volumes of info for you to process.
As long as your enjoying yourself & still progressing, that is the real key.

Its about fun.

Marce said..
Width is one key to stability. So 32 wide in 8' 10" to 9' 5" will give you the stability you are looking for and certainly up the performance you are getting from your current board. Comfort out the back and paddling out but upping the performance you are looking for. Good luck.

Yeh i have had a look at the Naish X32 8'3. I am a bit concerned its too wide though, after someone suggested it. maybe the width of that for stability but go to the 7'10 might be a bit better for me.

Do you think the stability of say an X32 is overkill for someone 65kg's?
I wouldnt say im a beginner but im certainly no super star. Im probably the lower end of intermediate. The only other board i have ridden is a 9'5'fanatic all wave and i didnt have any problems at all with stability or catching waves.

LRO said..

Do you think the stability of say an X32 is overkill for someone 65kg's?
I wouldnt say im a beginner but im certainly no super star. Im probably the lower end of intermediate. The only other board i have ridden is a 9'5'fanatic all wave and i didnt have any problems at all with stability or catching waves.

Yes, definitely! I'd be looking at about 28" if I was half my weight (which you nearly are). The 8'8" that I borrowed for a few weeks was 30" wide, but that made up for the short length. I wouldn't go a 32" wide board unless it was a Tomo Vanguard/Gong shape. The advice you've received re; demo-demo-demo is good advice, and I think you'll find that you should be able to get down to as low as 8'5" x 28" comfortably as long as the shape is right.

Possibly in order:

1. Stability. If you can't stand on it in a bit of chop then you're not going to catch any waves.
2. Light weight. If you can't get it to and from the beach then ^^^^
3. Paddling speed. Not so important if you have a nicely defined takeoff zone. Critical if you're trying to chase down unbroken swell.
4. Robust. It's no fun breaking your board every time you tap it with a paddle.
5. Wave performance. This is not so important because, unless it's a complete dud, how it goes on the wave is up to the rider.

DavidJohn said..

IMO.. Stability=fun.. and no stability=no fun.

Not sure about that DJ - my mates have a lot of fun laughing at me when I'm wobbling around on boards way smaller than I probably should

As for me - I get a workout (need more exercise) and it improves my balance & skill, so eventually leads to fun. I don't mind a bit of instability as long as it's within reason (ie; I don't fall off continually, or in front of waves) and I can manage the take-off, and once I'm on the wave a smaller board provides the reward...That's fun! SUPing on flatwater - definitely stability first so I can relax and enjoy the scenery.

Although secondary to the stability & fun factor, it's also worth thinking about at 65kegs - how hard will it be to get a big board through white water and the amount of drag from your leash?

Mahanumah said..

At 65kgs I wouldn't even think about something 32" wide. You don't need THAT much stability. Too wide and it will yaw too much and you won't be able to paddle straight.

At 65Kg you should be pretty stable on anything from 28-29" wide and up but the wider and shorter you go the more yaw you introduce.


In the end though the best advice anyone can give you is demo, demo, demo.

I can't get my head around the idea that because you weigh less you will need less width for stability. You need to match your weight to the volume, but width is still just as important for stability as is board shape no matter what you weigh. A wider board with not too much volume is the ideal for you. Also the width of the board won't make it yaw, only the length. Different fins and placements will also help overcome yaw (bigger centre fin further back in the box). If you want stability I'd go for something at least 30 inches wide but not too much volume to reduce the corkiness of the board. Also the pro surf shapes tend to have more rocker and "V" shaped bottoms so even a bigger one will still be less stable, but surf better. Shorter boards will also have less glide making it harder to get onto a wave.
Therefore for your requirements I'd go a more all round type shape like a naish mana 8'10 or a Jimmy Lewis Striker 8'11 .... glide for speed, width for stability, extra nose for more stability, not too much volume to reduce the corkiness, finer rails for improved performance in the surf and enough rocker to give you the performance you want.

My advice would be a 32" wide board in an under 8 foot length. E.g. Naish 7'10 or JP 7'4. Maybe even the Naish 7'6, I think it's around 30" wide

The reason I suggested not 32" wide is because the OP is only 10kg heavier than my wife.

She's downsized twice now from fanatic fly 10'6" to a Surftech Al Merrick 9'1" and now to a Hokua 8'5".

Each downsize has resulted in a narrower width (currently 28"). Smaller riders can often have trouble with wider boards (and larger volume as well).

She's now just starting to get comfortable in the surf as the board suits her size.

for me as a much bigger person (6' x 90kgs) I need more width for the stability (currently on a Hokua 9'10" x 30") but even I'm not sure I need 32" wide. Defo shorter but not sure on width.

30" wide seems to be a really good place to be unless you're really big...

I'm with DJ stability = Fun. Test as many boards as you can to try and find the right compromise for you. Failing that i would consider the consensus of opinion and start there. Have fun finding out.

mort69 said..

Get more than 1,problem solved

I'm with you mort69 . Glass conditions go as narrow as you like and if you want to surf in conditions as chop, back wash, water reef move, shifty peak take a wider board.

If i would be a board manufacturer i might do an adaptable board, made with a removable spare stringer making an extra width and flotation adjustment in a click system.

Just a French idea...

short boards = yaw. paddle technique = less yaw. short boards paddle out in curves, curve to the right , curve to the left = straight line