Had computer problems all week, plus was busy 6 days straight in the surf on my new11 6 south piont. I got the board last thurs, first thing friday morning paddled up river mouth to surf, the waves were only 2ft perfect offshore and really clean. Struggled a bit at first but spent 4hrs in that session and by the end could catch waves and ride them pretty well. The next few days were similar conditions and after five straight days i was going really well. The following day i went to a well known pretty gnarly surf break here called yellow rock, it was solid 4 to 5 ft with the odd closeout, this spot is a really long walk down steep steps then a clamber across slippery rocks then a paddle out through gnarly shorebreak close to rocks. After timing the sets i punched out through the shorey got out the back and paddled the 200m down to the wedging peak. The first couple waves i went for were well over head hight with a pretty stiff offshore blowing up the face taking the drop was quite hard as the wind pushed up against the under side or the board holding me up in the lip for a few scarey seconds. I paddled around a bit more getting my bearings talking to the amazed surfers i was out there, after a while a set wave come i commited got called into it paddled hard got going took the steep drop and got one of the best longest waves i have ever got on any board, this thing was well over head high sucky as and i was just pumping and weaving all the way down the line, friggen unbeleivable! After this i got a similar size left hander to the hoots and cheers of the other 2 lads out ther surfing, when i kicked out of this one i got caught inside and copped a few sets on the head, it was worth it but, i caught a couple more then went in. An awesome surf i will always remember. Feeling pretty confidant on the big beast now
...Sounds like you're having too much fun..
..Poor old Oliver is out there paddling right now..in the poring rain..
