Beating the shorebreak

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Souwester
Souwester
WA
1267 posts
WA, 1267 posts
7 Jul 2009 8:47pm
Recently became a fan of SUP after a lesson in Shoalwater WA a few months ago. Having never really surfed big waves and only perths beachbreaks, was wonderinng how you would beat a good sized shore break or get out of the impact zone if you got caught inside. I just read Casso's ripper story and it got me thinking how its done?
Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5125 posts
VIC, 5125 posts
8 Jul 2009 12:43pm
Given that nobody else wants to answer you, here's what I do:

- Look for somewhere to launch where you don't need to bash through the shore break. A long paddle for a shortboard is a cruise on a SUP so you can launch up to a km away and cruise into the lineup.

- Wait for a lull in the surf and paddle out. Again, SUP paddling is fast so it's quite easy to get out in breaks in the action.

- On smaller waves you can stand well back on your board and raise the nose and it will ride up over the broken wave. It's surprising how big a wave you can do this on. If you're just starting then kneeling is easier but it doesn't take too long to be able to do it standing up. Just before the wave hits I like to do a sprint paddle and hit it as fast as possible so the momentum helps carry me over.

- If you are about to be taken out by the white water make sure there's nobody behind you then dive your body over the wave and hope the dragging from the board is not too extreme. When you're in the water don't spread your arms and fight the pull, you'll only make it worse. Just stay slim and go with it and ride it out. If you're under water being dragged you can use the paddle to steer your body to the surface. It's kind of fun in a masochistic sort of way.

- If you're on the inside and about to be hit by a wave the easiest thing is to point the board towards the beach and lie on the tail with your paddle on the board. The wave will pick you up and take you in. You can leap to your feet and surf the wave in, and angle the board away from the impact zone. You can use the flat of the paddle as a planing surface to lean on and help keep you balance in the white water. Once inside out of danger you can wait for a lull and paddle out in one hit.

- If the waves are not too big you can hug your board with one arm and sink the nose and let the wave wash over you. Some guys hang onto the tail, some use the leash rail saver as a handle and some people are adding handles to the tail. Every time I've tried the leash thing it hurts my hand (a lot) so I'm reserving judgement on that.

- You want to avoid getting hit by your board. SUPs are so heavy that having one washed into you (or vice versa) is pretty painful.
Diver
Diver
WA
554 posts
WA, 554 posts
8 Jul 2009 11:12am
Around Shoalwater you would be surfing around the beach breaks at Secret Harbour, Surf Beach, Mandurah,...

Patience is the key and look for where there is a rip taking water back out through the sand banks. That should get you out fairly quickly, provided you wait for the lull between sets and not fight it too hard. If you come off your board, get back to shore and start again.

Since getting a narrower board, if it all looks like going a bit pear shaped I lie down and prone paddle back out, with the SUP paddle flat on the deck under my arm. Seems to work quite well.

Agreed with Gorgo that you look for a spot further up the beach and then paddle down to where you want to go. Just watch out for those nasty short and long boarders when you get there.
teatrea
teatrea
QLD
4177 posts
QLD, 4177 posts
8 Jul 2009 1:31pm
i have some success with rolling like a long boarder , my rails a pretty thin compared to some boards i have seen though , i can hold the paddle in one hand grip the rail and eskimo roll.This worked on quite a large wave and the only reason i tried it as their where a few people behind me and i didnt want to let the board go.

Good for those with big hands or thin rails.
boarder paul
boarder paul
1952 posts
1952 posts
8 Jul 2009 11:34am
Can you use a standard longboard leash for a 9'6 WAA
aus301
aus301
QLD
2039 posts
QLD, 2039 posts
8 Jul 2009 1:57pm
Gorgo said...

- If you are about to be taken out by the white water make sure there's nobody behind you then dive your body over the wave and hope the dragging from the board is not too extreme.


Be careful with this one, I tried it and had the board flick up and hit me in the thigh on the way through. That left me with a corked thigh that was very painful for a few days after. I would hate to think what would have happened if the pointy nose of my board hit me instead of beinng hit by the flat deck.

I often find that if I am getting stuck I will prone paddle with the paddle blade under my chest.

SammyJ
SammyJ
WA
571 posts
WA, 571 posts
8 Jul 2009 2:08pm
Souwester said...

Recently became a fan of SUP after a lesson in Shoalwater WA a few months ago.


Hey Chris,

How's it going, I remember you from the tour. Got some great photo's that day, I think there on the website. Have you got a board yet or in the process Let Jason know if not, he will be happy to assist in any way. If your all set up and want to get some waves PM me or get in touch with Jason. It would be great to catch up, happy to help with any tips and technique issues.
messup
messup
NSW
182 posts
NSW, 182 posts
8 Jul 2009 4:41pm
i had a shocker the other week going over whitewash only 3ft waves ,didn't have enough speed approaching the whitewash as i lent back on my rear foot to raise the nose my front foot slipped of center allowing the whole board to launch itself at me sideways that is with the rail side .
collected me all the way down my right side gave me a black eye , a major bruised rib that hurts like a bitch each time i sneeze or cough , a sore shoulder and bruised ego as i floundered around for a few seconds dazed in the water , major lesson learnt there.
tom
currently looking at gaths and impact vests if this rib doesn't get better.
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