Boards that suck

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robdog
robdog
VIC
611 posts
VIC, 611 posts
18 Feb 2009 11:35am
Last weekend Brooko's board was damaged accidently when he lent it to a friend to try out. The conditions were good and Brooko was not keen to exit the water. I was unsure as to whether his board would take on water if the fibreglass had been damaged and the foam was exposed.
Can anyone advise as to whether boards like SurfTech, Starboard, C4, Naish, PSH etc etc suck up water when dinged?
Should the board be taken straight out of the water?
And if it does suck up water what's the go to remove the water before fixing?
Thanks.
RobDog
Ben dover
Ben dover
QLD
504 posts
QLD, 504 posts
18 Feb 2009 11:00am
Yes all those boards will suck water if the foam is exposed.

Have fixed a couple of Naish's before and they do suck water.

Just leave it out in the sun and the water should bubble out.
stoneaxe
stoneaxe
136 posts
136 posts
18 Feb 2009 10:18am
If you can get a vacuum setup on it even better.

www.boardlady.com/waterextraction.htm

boardlady.com/leakdetection.htm

All the rest of her great stuff. Well worth the read....great info on board repair and funny too.
www.boardlady.com/index.htm

P co
P co
WA
458 posts
WA, 458 posts
18 Feb 2009 10:29am
The surftech foam is no more porous than what you would find in a regular PU board as far as I know and from experience with these. Not too sure on the others but seems a strong correlation between price and quality of materials. I think some of the cheapies that you see on the ebay etc have a more budget and open cell styrene.
P co
P co
WA
458 posts
WA, 458 posts
18 Feb 2009 10:31am
Mind you if you gouge a hole in a surftech you would proberly want to leave the water and get it seen to. They don't seem to suck in water from minute hairline cracks like an open cell board will though.
JonathanC
JonathanC
VIC
1024 posts
VIC, 1024 posts
18 Feb 2009 2:26pm
Pretty standard windsurf (similar construction) experience is to have an epoxy "dingstick" in the car. These are rolls of epoxy paste, you just tear/cut off a bit, knead it till it's consistent colour then bog up the hole - you can be back on the water in about 10 or 15 minutes. It's a real bugger when water does get in and really worth doing the board lady vacuum thing or at least really cutting away the affected foam and doing a proper repair. If you don't fix it properly it stuffs the board because the foam continues to break down.

Any boards that I've ever had water in I always leave the plug out whenever the board is not on the water, store the board flat up the normal surfing way and the water vapour bubbles out of the plug hole - if you put your ear to the plug hole when the board is hot your can hear the crackle of the water bubbling through the foam.
Problem then is that from then on you always have to remember to put the plug back in - I actually tie something bright coloured to the leg rope tie when I undo the plug so I don't forget to tighten the plug before I go out, otherwise I spend the whole time trying to remember whether I did the plug up or not!
boardbumps
boardbumps
NSW
698 posts
NSW, 698 posts
18 Feb 2009 5:17pm
The absolute best thing for quick fixing dings in epoxy boards is Selleys Kneadit.

Just the plain general purpose one, it sets in about two mins in the sun so you have to be quick. It will probably take a bit longer in Vicco as the water is colder, so the board will be colder. Don't get the Aqua kneadit, it takes toooo long to set.

I have been using this stuff ever since it became available years ago. I still use it today to seal the eps foam before I fix dings with polyester res.


Rod


robdog
robdog
VIC
611 posts
VIC, 611 posts
18 Feb 2009 10:18pm
Thanks to all for the valuable info.

Hey Rod, Howard Hughes told me a similar thing, he suggested covering the foam with 5 minute araldite, then, when hard, fixing with normal fibreglass and polyester resin. Works for me.
Robdog
Dadinabarrel
Dadinabarrel
WA
128 posts
WA, 128 posts
19 Feb 2009 6:37pm
The most important thing you need to know about repairing an eps/epoxy/divinycel/whatever board is that the water evaporates out, it doesn't drain after the first bit. So have the hole at the top.

If the hole is at the bottom (thinking to drain it out) when the water evaporates it migrates to the top under the skin of the board and starts a delam.
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