Catching Bay Wind Swells

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Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5126 posts
VIC, 5126 posts
4 Jan 2009 12:03pm
My ambition is to go out on moderately breezy days and catch the swells on the bay. While it is a great workout paddling upwind, the downwind segment has been a little disappointing.

I've been out in winds up to 25 knots and managed to catch a few swells using boards such as the C4 11'6", Starboard 12'6", my Starboard 11'2", Naish 11'6" and the Naish Glide.

I've managed to catch the odd runner, and quite a few waves breaking on a sand bar. I've had nothing approaching catching runners in sequence or getting a surf-like ride. Maybe the longest ride was about 10-20 metres. In my experience if the wave is not breaking then you're highly unlikely to catch it.

So, has anybody had much luck catching wind swell? What kind of board do you think we need to consistently catch wind swells?

I don't want to have to paddle in outrageously strong winds. It's too much like hard work paddling into 20 knot winds and kiteboarding is more fun in those conditions. A 15 knot breeze throws up a decent little swell and I want to catch the bastards!

The problem seems to be that the swells are moving so fast that it is not possible to get up enough board speed to catch them. I've tried all sorts of variations of standing well forward, back or centered.

I am thinking that maybe a wider tail is needed. That might be why the Starboards and the Glide did not catch swells so easily. The C4 has a wide tail and it seems to catch swells a little better. I also had a McCoy Nugget which was awesome for catching small waves and it had a very wide tail.

Maybe a displacement hull like the Pentrator is the go. I am loathe to get a 17' board. Would a 12' Penetrator have sufficient waterline length to take advantage of the displacement hull?
Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5126 posts
VIC, 5126 posts
4 Jan 2009 3:05pm
Just did a fitness paddle in around 8 knot winds. I can definitely get some lift off the 6-12" swells. In these conditions something like the Glide would be hooting along nicely. So, smaller, slower waves are somewhat catchable. It still takes a fair bit of paddling effort and it's not surfing.
stoneaxe
stoneaxe
136 posts
136 posts
4 Jan 2009 3:07pm
I've done a lot of what I call mini-downwinders on the bay but I have the same problem. I'm paddling a starboard 12-6 and in 2'-3' windswell there just isn't enough to get much of a run.
Pauloz
Pauloz
VIC
116 posts
VIC, 116 posts
4 Jan 2009 5:19pm
Hey,

I cant help but think something that had more of itself on the downhill part of the wave may do it. A long board with (relatively) narrow tail in small waves sinks into the wave.

What about something like the the new breed of windsurf boards (formula type). Shortish but with heaps of width on the "little" wave.

anyone tried ??


Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5126 posts
VIC, 5126 posts
4 Jan 2009 7:27pm
There's a definite "stalling" feel as the board drops off the back of the swell. It feels quite demoralising when you've paddled like buggery to catch a wave.

It's also kind of odd when you've paddled over these quite large faces on the way upwind but when going downwind they feel like mushy bumps.

I've tried standing way forward to get the board to coast down the swells. It helps a little but if you get too far forward the board loses directional stability and starts yawing too much.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
4 Jan 2009 9:28pm
Gorgo you should do a 40knt northerly down-winder with Dave and I one day..and I'm sure you'll be getting plenty of good runners and wind chop surfing.

I think that if you can paddle into it the wind can't be all that strong so you're asking a lot from such a light wing swell.

You can also pick your spots.. Mark was out in front of the Bus at St Kilda the other day getting megs long runners on his 12'6" Starboard catching the waves that kick up in the middle are of the St Kilda marina.. He said that these waves were the best that he had experience in the bay and will always come back for more in that spot when there's a good sea breeze blowing.. There must be a shallow sand bar out there making the waves jack up.

I paddle in these conditions alot and I've found that constantly paddling hard is not only hard work and pisses you off for not catching anything but I've learned that a few big digs at the right moment is much better and back off the paddling pressure the rest of the time.

Also don't expect too much.. One hard paddle at the right moment will give you a good glide if only 10-15 feet..but it all adds up over a long distance.

The Glide with its pointy nose does not tend to bog down when the run into the back of the wave in front..and that's another area that I've got better at.

After watching Todd's vid about catching runners he said that the biggest mistake he sees most new people doing when doing down-winders is that they paddle too hard.

You want to just stay on it..Not out run it..I some times cut across the face to avoid running into the back of the wave in front.

Practace,practace,parctace..It's all good fun and keeps ya fit...Hope to see you on a big down-winder one day.

DJ
oliver
oliver
3952 posts
3952 posts
4 Jan 2009 8:06pm
I was out on my 10'6" today and I don't know what you guys have got against paddling into the wind. I got to say, I kind of enjoy it. It's quite challenging to keep tracking straight and sure it's slow, but it's persistence and perseverance that is the big pay off when you reach your goal. On the downwind run back to base I even thought I caught a couple of runners - kind of fun getting in surfing stance even if I just thought I caught them.

The idea of just doing a downwinder without experiencing the pain goes against my grain. The organization that needs to go into a downwinder, setting up vehicles etc, kind of kills the idea of riding a board in the ocean for me a tad. It's good having chairlifts around to take you to the top of the mountain if that infrastructure already exists. But I reckon If you can't climb the mountain you haven't earned the right to ski down it IMHO.

With the Glide I'd be interested to know how it copes paddling into 10 - 15 knott winds. From the looks of it I think it would be fine, would track well and be stable. Seems to be the ideal port philip bay sub.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
4 Jan 2009 10:24pm
Oliver the Glide goes into the wind better than any other board that I've paddled.

Also..I think once you've done a 40 knot down-winder you might change your mind about all the hassle of a car shuffle.

I used to think like you hiking to the top of mountains so I could snowboard down in untracked snow..That was then..Now I'm happy to use the chair lift..

DJ
oliver
oliver
3952 posts
3952 posts
4 Jan 2009 8:36pm
DavidJohn said...

Also..I think once you've done a 40 knot down-winder you might change your mind about all the hassle of a car shuffle.


If it was an organized thing with more than a couple of people doing it with maybe "the supBus" at the end of it acting as a chairlift, I'd definitely put my hand up to it.
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
VIC
1722 posts
VIC, 1722 posts
5 Jan 2009 12:34am
I did the "Jump off the end of Mordy Pier" with my old Bonga like I used to when I was a kid with my surfboard. It was a mega struggle walking the board to the end of the pier in 30knts onshore but got there eventually.

Being a pretty tippy board and waves about head high+ was hard to even stand up but when I got a wave I rode pretty much it to the beach, about 150m ride. Probably wouldn't do it again, just getting to the water stage was hard enough.

Another good one is Patterson river mouth in Bon Beach/Carrum on low tide. Depending on the time of year with dredging and sutff you can get rollers (don't break) that go for about 100m. Again can be hard paddling back into the wind but your first wave is plenty of fun. Worth checking if ya driving past for a novelty wave.
stuey c
stuey c
QLD
265 posts
QLD, 265 posts
5 Jan 2009 12:33am
During Woogie and Chris De Aboitizs' attempted circumnavigation of Frazer island 18 or so months ago on 16' second gen. rudderless Penetrators, Woogie connected 2 or three runners which he rode for over a minute and a half in which time he paddled no more than half a dozen strokes. This was on the inside of the island with a 15 knot following breeze and 1-2 feet of wind chop. On the right board conditions don't have to be all that special to get long runs.......

P.S. The Penetrator design doesn't have to be going downwind to move quickly either. A perfect example for those who haven't watched it already can be seen on youtube, just type in "ocean racing sup" for a short clip of my design going in BOTH directions......
Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5126 posts
VIC, 5126 posts
5 Jan 2009 11:18am
oliver said...
...

With the Glide I'd be interested to know how it copes paddling into 10 - 15 knott winds. From the looks of it I think it would be fine, would track well and be stable. Seems to be the ideal port philip bay sub.


The Glide goes fine into 10-15 knot winds and probably stronger winds without chop.

In 20 knots and heavy chop the directional stability works against it. Once it gets pushed off course you really have to paddle hard to get the nose back into wind. I eventually gave up and lay down and hand paddled and got upwind much faster.

It's not super stable because the nose is so narrow. A normal SUP is more stable because the width goes the over more of the length of the board.
rambooc1
rambooc1
QLD
326 posts
QLD, 326 posts
5 Jan 2009 10:57am
The big difference between surfing a coastal breaking wave and wind runners is you trying to paddle into the "holes" in front of you and not on catching a swell from behind.

Wind generated swells travel in "trains" of approx 5 bumps and moving thru the train is a master swell consuming the train as it moves faster than the other 5. If you identify and surf the master swell by staying on it and only take the drop when it will take you to the next swell in the train, you will have covered a lot of ground.

Between trains, look for the shoulder waves that run off at an angle and use those to maintain speed by sticking your bow into the hole. Catching wind runners is a series of sprints. Look for the trains between 20 and 50 metres in front of you.

Download some more complete info from my training Knowledge Box here http://www.box.net/shared/grh7y5xrg4

Cheers Rambo
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