Catching Waves

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oliver
oliver
3952 posts
3952 posts
8 Dec 2008 6:50pm
After I had my head injury, I didn't think much of it, there was a bit of blood but I wasn't in pain so decided to continue on. Phil Trigger (Trigger Brothers surfboards) came out to take advantage of the good conditions. I've watched him a few times now in the surf and he does something I haven't noticed others doing before in videos, or watching others paddle surf. And it looked pretty cool.

He would paddle fast towards the wave, then quickly turn at right angles on the waves peak by moving his feet towards the back of the board, sinking it in the water and then with a combination of paddling and letting the lip of the wave push the nose of the board down the wave's face he would catch the wave. It looked very impressive, and I'm still not sure how he did it.

I may not have taken lots of notice of this before but I've only ever seen people turn when they see the wave coming in the distance and then paddle in roughly the same direction as the wave.
robdog
robdog
VIC
611 posts
VIC, 611 posts
8 Dec 2008 9:29pm
Check this old post out Oliver. The vids are good and have really helped me. I try to practice the manouvre as much as possible and hope to master it soon.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41102&SearchTerms=around
oliver
oliver
3952 posts
3952 posts
8 Dec 2008 7:44pm
Robdog,

Yep this vid is pretty close to what he was doing (the 1:20 mark) but I could have sworn he was starting the turn even later than Ivan on this vid - he would turn on the face of the wave and let the white water push the nose down. I also think that he had both feet in parallel stance at the back of the board during the turn so both ankles were underwater, which would lift the board to about a 20% angle above the water.



It's certainly a very quick turn.
boardbumps
boardbumps
NSW
698 posts
NSW, 698 posts
8 Dec 2008 10:46pm
Guys it is pretty much a standard kick tail turn before the wave, just takes practice. You just step back a half step and keep your back foot over the centre line of the board, keeping your foot on centre will help keep your balance. You just have to decide which way your going to turn, into the peak to claim inside position or away from the peak, away is best if it is going to be a late takeoff and puts you closer to the shoulder where it is not going to be so steep.

The other way is when you are paddling out to the wave and you do a kick tail turn but you are closer to the wave and the lip pushes you nose around ( more skillful and harder to do ) this called a paddle out re-entry, just watch out for the guys inside of you when you wipeout. The easiest way to perform this trick is to paddle at an angle to the on-coming wave from the shoulder to the peak but going forwards not sideways so much.

Also to initiate a kick tail turn I have found that you only need to get one forward stroke in from a parked position, this is enough to give you stability for the turn.

I have only recently mastered this turn after the water warmed up, up here. I was forced to and now wonder why I kept doing it with my old style. The left knee was really playing up due to the twisting action from front paddling all the time. There is no pain now. My current record is 4 x 360 spins using the kick tail method but doing it in choppy water not smooth easy water.

Rod
Gorgo
Gorgo
VIC
5126 posts
VIC, 5126 posts
8 Dec 2008 11:30pm
I did a fair bit of practise at kick turns, pivot turns, whatever you want to call them. I could do them in the kiddies pool but was never confident to do them in the surf and risk missing a wave.

I had a break through the other day where I practiced them with both feet together as Oliver described. I found it very stable and I could stand way back on the tail of the board and twirl around quite happily. I did it for about 15 minutes at a time over two sessions and haven't fallen yet.

I've also done it standing feet together up near the nose. It worked ok but I haven't practiced it enough to be confident.

From that it was a simple extension to do it in surf stance. In surf stance I stand in natural stance (right foot back) and do a back paddle that really gets the pivot started before paddling forward and stepping back to the middle of the board.

Oliver, do you think your blow to the head has given you superpowers?
elbeau
elbeau
WA
988 posts
WA, 988 posts
8 Dec 2008 9:46pm
A blow to the head will not do it. From what I have read you need to be bitten by a radioactive fish/shark/jellyfish etc at the same time to make the transition effectively
oliver
oliver
3952 posts
3952 posts
8 Dec 2008 9:59pm
Gorgo said...


Oliver, do you think your blow to the head has given you superpowers?


Errr... nope, I actually feel pretty humbled by it and a little vulnerable right now. But when I get back in the water in a couple of weeks I'm going to be practicing those kick turns for the rest of summer.

boardbumps said...


The other way is when you are paddling out to the wave and you do a kick tail turn but you are closer to the wave and the lip pushes you nose around ( more skillful and harder to do ) this called a paddle out re-entry, just watch out for the guys inside of you when you wipeout. The easiest way to perform this trick is to paddle at an angle to the on-coming wave from the shoulder to the peak but going forwards not sideways so much.


This is what he was doing on most of the waves he went for, and the parking thing described it pretty well, he would be at the top of the wave in a parallel position and let the lip and maybe one or two strokes push the nose into the wave. I reckon he was successful about 80% of the time today - very cool.
Tux
Tux
VIC
3829 posts
Tux Tux
VIC, 3829 posts
9 Dec 2008 8:41am
Micky the Cat and Greg knoll used to do it in the old surf movies all the time as they knee paddled into a wave that was about to break they would stand up and get sucked up the face before letting the lip push th nose of the board around and riding away
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