Found this on the net somewhere .. sorry I can't credit the author, but it's an interesting read:

Anything to add / comments?

Eternal Surf Truths

---Some of those "geezers" in the lineup have surfed better waves with more style than you ever will. They deserve your respect.

---The chances that yesterday was truly "all-time" are pretty slim.

---You will never get a set wave at Pipeline on a good day...ever. Just deal with it.

---Your homebreak on a good day with your best friends might just be the best spot in the world.

---You can hold your breath longer than any wave can hold you down.

---It is good for your surfing to go without a leash.

---People who tell you, "You're too old to be spending all you free time surfing" are very bitter and jealous. They deserve your pity.

---A good session will make you a better human being.

---Taking a break from the ocean is healthy. It helps recharge the batteries.

---It doesn't matter how long you've been surfing. You will never get your fill.

---9 times out of 10, it's safer and more satisfying to pull in than it is to straighten out.

---Good surfing is about how you feel, not how you look.

---You should thank whoever turned you on to surfing. You are very lucky to be a surfer.

.. It's always better than it looks.
.. If in doubt paddle out.

do the time in the #### to really enjoy the gold

You guys really missed it, you should have been here yesterday

Never leave a good wave to look for a better wave.