Legion said...planesailing said...
I surf... or used to.
for the pureness of it.
for the solitude.
for the adventure.
for the test of courage.
sadly now I believe the waves have hit critical mass.
it no longer holds that magic, its crowded and
now so mainstream, i wouldn't be surprised to see my mum
paddle out. and i see it getting worst before it gets better.
now with jetski tow ins. even the larger swells will get crowded.
if i wanted a pastime/sport with crowds i woulda played football.
DOOM and GLOOM but you did ask.......
Someone gets it.
doggie said...Mine was an old foamie with a foam fin, I was 5yo. Times have changes a bit
I used to ride those foamies. Still got a couple in the old man's shed IIRC. I used to surf so heavy on the back foot that all the foam would start to disintegrate. I used to go through two a summer. On a couple I tried to put a glass patch down to protect it. Then the foam around the patch would disintegrate and create a razor blade edge. Bad idea.
Anyway, don't you all realise that none of you surf?
hey,after training, about 6 or so of us were surfing 12,6 and 14 ' boards at 5.30 this morning in some reasonable waves. no paddle is going to turn a board at that size. you have to use pure surfing prowess to turn and surf them. it's not all about a 6 ' something shortboard.
don't make my mistake,i blew it for years just thinking a shortboards was the be all and end all, know i just laugh to myself at the fence leaners looking at s### surf
. anything will do as long as it's in the ocean
sincerely
!
