I was surfing a secret outer reef , 10ft & Gnarly.Took of on a beast , dropped into the blue abyss , for a moment i thought i had made it ; felt the board ripped from under my feet , i got dragged over the lip and then felt a terrible pain in my side.My first thought was im stuffed im 8 ks off shore by my self in thundering surf with a horrific gaping wound.And thats not the worst part my board had snapped in half , **** im going to have to swim back , in these shark infested waters.
Any way i survived to tell the tale.Then woke up with my hand firmly on it!!
But ill be making something up like that to tell the grand kids.Real story hip operation and out of the water for at least 12 weeks , im really bored and quite high on pain killers.Sorry!!!!!