open the valve
drill a hole in the tail
stand it up
put a fish tank pump in the hole.

let it stand for a week.

it'll suck the water out.

for next time glue the plug in, you'll do far more damage getting water in then a little bit of heat

Thanks for reply, sounds like you have had some experience with this problem. The thing is with this board it has multiple dings, competition style sup with collapsed deck and pin hole construction faults. The valve however is working fine and minimal delamination at this point.
I recently fixed the tail and am reluctant to do the stand on the tail thing again if avoidable. Did this for two weeks a while back.
Your method may still work if I place the board correctly.
Was wondering if a wet vac sealed over ding site may work or a factory with a proper vacuum set up is available??

Here ya go, grab a few beers and read this one... www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/sailing-with-the-plug-out/

But be prepared for some very techo babble, and the destruction of a board in the process.

Hi Funnsurf,

just leave it in the sun with the crack or hole at the lowest point. As it heats up, it will push the water out. Depending on how long the board was sucking water, you may need to leave it for up to a week or even more ....

DM

ShireSUP said...

AKSonline said...

Hi Funnsurf,

just leave it in the sun with the crack or hole at the lowest point. As it heats up, it will push the water out. Depending on how long the board was sucking water, you may need to leave it for up to a week or even more ....

DM

with respect isnt leaving a board in the sun the worst thing to do regardless of water, on holidays i kept moving my board out of the sun ppl thought I was crazy.......

Not if there is a hole in it. It naturally pressurizes the board to blow the water out. Gravity will get the water down to the crack/hole, heat in the board will do the rest. I'm talking normal temperatures not crazy northern summer temps. Eithr way, shouldn't hurt the board so long as the board has taken on water, then it isn't air tight anymore so will naturally vent.

To make sure it has taken on water. Place your mouth over the hole/crack and suck. If you can draw salty water, it needs draining.

DM

the best way to work out how wet it is is to weigh the board, however this does require that you have a somewhat accurate baseline to work from.

If it has taken on a lot of water you really want to get it out as fast as possible, and now that it has had water in there never ever leave it in the sun or a hot car with the vent closed. You are asking for delimitation problems if you do. You will likely never completely dry the inside of the board, and there will now be salt residue left behind that over time will be degrading the EPS core of the board.

There are any number of methods for water removal, how effective each are really depends on how much water is in there. For only a small amount gravity, two holes and a little heat will help. For a lot that method won't be fast enough to avoid more permanent damage. Start thinking vac pump, or spinners to get rid of the water.

I do the 'leave in car' thing as well - as long as there is a hole in it other wise it will blow up and delam somewhere. BUT-Do not have direct sunlight on it if it is a hot colour like red or black, etc as the foam underneath can literally melt.

I saw this many times when I used to make/repair epoxy goatboats.

Shayne86 the foam inside most SUPs is styrofoam which is basically bubbles of foam with air inbetween them - perfect for storing large quantities of water. A crack in the shell will let it in! Customs are more prone to it than pop outs - but they are usually much much lighter to begin with!

Hi Goaty.

I just remembered having you and DC trying to plug up my sup from being ran over by a free surfer just before the NSW final last year. hahahaha. Two tones of solarez and four tones of electrical tape hahahahaha. Sinking ship.

goatman said...

I do the 'leave in car' thing as well - as long as there is a hole in it other wise it will blow up and delam somewhere. BUT-Do not have direct sunlight on it if it is a hot colour like red or black, etc as the foam underneath can literally melt.

I saw this many times when I used to make/repair epoxy goatboats.

Shayne86 the foam inside most SUPs is styrofoam which is basically bubbles of foam with air inbetween them - perfect for storing large quantities of water. A crack in the shell will let it in! Customs are more prone to it than pop outs - but they are usually much much lighter to begin with!

Never experiment with vacuums. That's what our sex ed teacher told us and I think it applies equally to SUP board repair. Unless you know what you're doing, you can crush the board and ruin it forever. Apparently.

firstly, you can never get all the water/weight out

secondly, do not put a vaccum bag on it , i did it with a carbon skin/ EPS core Kracka clubby board (had a valve) years ago to remove moisture from a dinged rail(and it sucked in horribly on the nearby flat area )