linter said...
could somebody who surfs size break it down for me: how do you survive wipeouts like these? i mean, what's going through your brain, and how are you reacting or trying to react, and just in general what's going on down there? i'm *never* goiing to ride anything close to those waves, and don't want to; but, still, i'm curious about survival in the impact zone.
I have not surfed anything like that but the wipeouts you get in big surf are a buzz part of the ride so to speak. You just relax and go with it, scares the **** out of you and you are glad it is over but much like a rollercoaster or skydive you can't wait to get back up there.
