theDoctor said...
remember when surfing was what was described as a counter culture...?
remember when you'd nod the silent acknowledgement to the fellow who was out before/followed you out, you watched/he watched you get a wave that was mastered; something supremely esoteric that began a thousand miles away and came to finish in a final eventful few seconds only to be witnessed by those present, appreciated and remembered for a lifetime by a lucky one, whose life changed; metamorphasised into a reason for being, selfishly, spiritually unexplainable to those of needing explaination...
then you got a mortgage
for a property you don't need
then surfing became an ad
then you bought a board from thailand
then you videoed your kids
then you checked the swell on the net
then you talked about litres contained in your board like it made a difference to how you still surf like a kook
then you carried on how your house on the point that used to be a fisho shack with a history and a story, but you tore down to turn into some better homes and garden sterile example of some place normal people can't feel comfortable in, all of a sudden made you a local
then you got punched in the head
then you complained
and took a woefully indignant selfrighteous stand
fark off tool, 'your money sucks'
I'd punch you in the head too
This is the best post ever. Particularly the bit about us checking the swell on the net. I seem to spend so much time checking the charts hoping it will be good that I forget to just go down there and go out. Also the bit about us talking about the litreage of out boards when we are really all kooks. I'm guilty as charged and I'm not the lone ranger either. What's up with the doctor who talks like a teenage girl? "He was like..." and "I was like...." Whatever happened to "He said..."