Yes Scott, you will need to abrade about 5mm around the cracks carefully. Get yourself dome clingfilm and masking tape ready(to stop the film blowing away if there is a breeze). Make sure any vent screws are removed(good opportunity to service/replace the O-ring..a little Vaseline is never a bad thing to prevent the ring from catching and breaking). Make sure your board wont go into a much warmer environment and start heating up as you are doing the repair as the expanding air inside can blow bubbles through your repair in turn leaving a pinhole through it - dark boards heat up very quickly. Preferably(in winter) store your board inside overnight in the warm and do your repair first thing in the morning when its chilly and if anything a minor contracting of the air inside the board will pull the resin into the crack a little bit - again though massive temp difference can pull the pinhole into the board.
Apply a 3mmdiameter bead of solar cure epoxy and carefully lay the clingfilm over without any wrinkles and manipulate until the edged of the resin reach the edges of the abraded areas. Use tape(not directly over the resin) to control the clingfilm.
Practice on one. you can always scrape it off with a brand new razor blade if you muff it.
In my experience repairing the Falcons the blade damage is usually only on the bow rail so you don't necessarily need to do the whole rail.
Also a word of caution. If you have a crack there and don't knit it with a tight resin repair, there is a very serious risk of laceration and large damage if you happen to fall or step on that area.
So please be careful doing temporary repairs!
PS, ensure the board is dry internally first by positioning the board in the sun(with vent plug closed) with the cracks at the lowest point and watch for water or salt crystals to appear. If only a very small amount of salt water or salt crystals, wipe any salt away with fresh water..epoxy loves neither water nor salt!
Here endeth the lesson.
