After possibly the worst week ever , i was sitting around today nursing a mammoth hangover and decided to go for a paddle , so chucked the PSH 12,6 beasty on the roof and parked down the creek and went for a very slow paddle to the Alley. It looked pretty good some nice 2ft peelers.Beeen out about an hour having some fun and noticed a 3 wave set coming out wide , I waited for the third one would have been a 3ft maybee a touch bigger.And the fun started , just a perfect long wall that was screaming over the shallow banks i literally hit mack 2 , I had both feet right on the inside rail to try stop the big girl from flipping , the face started to get pretty steep , this is after already going about 200m , so risked a turn of the top , literall dropped through the air , had to get right back on the tail so i diidnt nose it , survived that went into a monstrous bottom turn , the best ive ever done , stalled on the tail thought it was going to barrell , but no cigar.By the time id ridden it to its death looked back and realized id ridden this perfect wave for at least 700m maybe more.So stoked i feel like getting drunk again Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew

Moral of the storey , get out their even if you dont feel like it , you may get the wave of your life

Great to hear some stoke around here!!

teatrea i went out on my 12'6 mid afternoon. got some screamer wide ones on my 12'6 too. it just seemed to get better and better.


almost thought about whipping home and grabbing the surf sup

Ditto. Perfect SE QLD winters day. I was there as well. Would have stayed there all day if I could.

bspot68 said..

hey was a great afternoon teatrea got some great little waves too, if only the crowd was a little smaller would have surfed for hours.

Thats why you need a big board mate , you have to be patient out wide , but some gems come through every now and again

laceys lane said..

teatrea i went out on my 12'6 mid afternoon. got some screamer wide ones on my 12'6 too. it just seemed to get better and better.


almost thought about whipping home and grabbing the surf sup

you can borrow my surf supBlane Chambers made a great board in this one.Its good in anything

Sailhack said..

Thanks tt... that's the motivation I needed to get out there tomorrow - did you get that Jefin?

Sure Did

Awesome story TT thanks for sharing

petedorries said..

CMC said..

Great to hear some stoke around here!!

So is that why you were out there hunting around. Was it as good?

Yep, he inspired me. Not sure I got the wave of my life like Teatree but on a 12'6 it sure was fun. I haven't really surfed that much on a 12'6 before, think I might do it some more!!!

Thanks Tea Tree!!

Still frothing fellasIt was one of those very rare in the zone moments I count two or three in my 40 odd years of existence. It must be what kelly slater feels almost every time he goes for a surf! Feeling the stoketitle for your next movie PirosEven better today i got my Daughter away from social media for a couple of hours to do some paddling , i think she is starting to feel the stokeI hope

Had the pleasure of seeing some of the big hairy man?s work first hand that day and there were a good handful of crackers in my time out there that I had the fun of hooting at!!

Right board, right bloke, right waves.

Cheers
HV