Legion said...Waterhorse said...
You clearly have lost that loving feeling.
Surfing's not about a loving feeling. Where's your dream surf? Snapper, Currumbin, Noosa points? Or some empty wave with no-one but you and/or maybe 2-3 mates (less people than the amount of waves coming through)?
What's your ideal surf? Your mate gets barrelled and pulls off a nice roundhouse while you bog rails all day and score closeouts? Or you get the barrels and maneuvers and who cares what happened to your mate?
A set comes through. You're out of position but some random stranger gets the first wave, best/biggest of the day. Another stranger picks off the next. You get the third and it fizzles in comparison to their waves. As you get closed out on or the wave fades, you see them way down the line still riding. Are you stoked for them?
What's the best time for surfing? A Saturday/Sunday morning, sun shining. You get to sit and sip tea with all the longboarders and kooks and cluelessly talk about the footy game the night before? Or a frigid midweek dawn patrol in winter, sand still below 0, no-one out, glassy barrels unloading on the sandbank?
I'm all for chat in the carpark or on the beach before/after a surf, but I'm aggressive and selfish in the water. It's a war zone out there. I want the best waves for myself, I don't care one iota about other people in the water. My session satisfaction is based on what I did and how well I did it. Even with just one mate, I still want to do better than them.
To be honest, if there are some of you with more than enough waves to go around and you get to high-five each other into the waves and you're just too tired to care, then I'm jealous. It's not like that here, even when it's uncrowded. I've had 5 hour sessions with less than 10 people in the water when I still don't get enough, as recently as last spring.
