Today I scored the best session I've ever had on my PSH 9'10" ripper!

We have had a week of out of control 6-8ft onshore & today the wind finally relented & swung sideshore... The only guys out were my mate on his Naish 9'6" & a couple of surfers who were SMILING - Whats going on here? I felt like I had travelled back in time on a PSH time-machine to 1970's

It was still a stormy swell with a low-tide bombie right-hander opposing the waves wrappng around the left-hand point. A sweeping rip pushing inshore separated the two just enough to paddle in-between and a weird wind was swirling offshore/onshore over Mt Karioi.

Normally its crowded on the point and I dont paddle in deep very often out of respect for the shortboard crew - its a very shallow ledge Take-off and it's too dangerous to be pivot turning at close-quarters with more than 2 or 3 guys sitting in the small take off zone.

Raglan has become tourist surfer Mecca & there is always a hungry pack of surfers of differing skill levels crowding out the wave. The older locals surf good & tend to be grumpy & then there's the hyper-active crew of groms surfing at a really high level thanks to the Raglan surf-acadamy. Not a very good crowd to SUP with & I tend to AVOID it unless it's big and grindy.

But today there was NO-ONE OUT & it was 6-8 ft! This is pretty much unheard of these days, I was so surprised to be able to paddle in deep, take my time & pick off the absolute primo bombs. The 9'10 just comes alive in the big stuff & every take off I thought I would not make the sucking/pitching drop - only to find myself flying so fast at the bottom having to delay the bottom turn and stall for the lip to throw out.

Sorry no GOPRO , Reaity SUP T.V. or pics - use your imagination....

Yay for winter!!! & thanks to Blane for my 9'10" gun.

Nah, no tubbies - just my lanky mate & me powderpuffing it

I noticed I dont use the paddle as much in those bigger waves, the board becomes alot more responsive at speed..... The 9'10" goes FAST too fast to be turning off the paddle

Awesome GLASSOFF!

Doesn't get better than that!

Life is good eh!

AA

Hey Glass Off,

Head Teletubbie here,





I find the same thing with the psh 10'6 the faster it goes the better it responds!

SPEED IS EVERYTHING!

I am learning to fall of the 9'6 at the moment and man that board rocks, in both big and small waves.

Blane is now making so many options that I get confuzzelled just thinking about it!

Need to surf now to get my head straight. Waves to the camera crew and outside broadcast van and says >>>>>> this way to the beach boys and this time get the lighting right your making me look skinny in that costume PMSL

Phill