yeah thats the hard bit even trying to find a glassing company that will do epoxy is near impossible and then find a shaping bay big enough for a sup.

its not the cost of epoxy that turns peolpe away in the glassing industry its the fact that there are so many extra steps and that the resin takes so long to cure and with poly you can glass a board in a day! Also a lot of guys are set up for poly and dont want to even go there with epoxy.
good luck in the garage

Sam Egan is a surfer shaper & a weapon of a Master Craftsman rated the 2nd best shaper in Australia ...

Interesting. Who's the best, and what does the rest of the list look like?

Lacey, CMC,

im confused? (not hard) where the fin plugs put back to OG postion before selling to CMC?

if anyone needs a epoxy glasser grb sup designs in kirra does a great job just post me if you want his details

Sorry Dog, having computer problems, borat would be sweet with a red gaff.

Bnaccas said...

he said the key is to mix a filler (like micro balloons maybe?) in with the finish/hot coat
as it makes it easier to sand. I haven't had a chance to try this yet but it seams to make sense to me.

Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Yep for a painted finish you need a fairing coat which is epoxy mircoballon mixture mixed to peanut butter consistency and used as a filler coat, easy to sand back down to smooth finish. If you want a real good finish a two pack high build primer helps as well. The problem is that all these coats add weight..

To help with curing time I use a hot box (light bulbs and plywood) speeds up cure time. I all so use to leave the boards in the car on a warm sunny day to cure quicker.

I like to do clear coats over timber and the best result for the home builder was to do a light fill over the glass job using epoxy to help spread it thin I use to heat it up this helps out heaps. Sand back to 400grit and then use a acrylic clear spray out of a can a polish using a cutting compond brings up a good matt type finish for not too much extra weight and duribility is good.

shunter said...

Bnaccas said...

he said the key is to mix a filler (like micro balloons maybe?) in with the finish/hot coat
as it makes it easier to sand. I haven't had a chance to try this yet but it seams to make sense to me.

Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Yep for a painted finish you need a fairing coat which is epoxy mircoballon mixture mixed to peanut butter consistency and used as a filler coat, easy to sand back down to smooth finish. If you want a real good finish a two pack high build primer helps as well. The problem is that all these coats add weight..

To help with curing time I use a hot box (light bulbs and plywood) speeds up cure time. I all so use to leave the boards in the car on a warm sunny day to cure quicker.

I like to do clear coats over timber and the best result for the home builder was to do a light fill over the glass job using epoxy to help spread it thin I use to heat it up this helps out heaps. Sand back to 400grit and then use a acrylic clear spray out of a can a polish using a cutting compond brings up a good matt type finish for not too much extra weight and duribility is good.

My plan is to use peel ply on my laminates, light sand, one fill coat, fins boxes in, good sand and then a clear coat - trying to to find a good polyeurithan (sp) spray can for the finish. Got the blank over the weekend need to bang up some stands (any one have a set I can borrow?) so I can do the final sand and glassing.