getting out

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paul.j
paul.j
QLD
3381 posts
QLD, 3381 posts
21 Sep 2007 7:26pm
How do you get out when the swell is solid 6 foot.
i had a few days of this size and it would have taken me at least 45 min to an hour to get out is there a secret? do you have to lie down and paddle to keep momentum going? what about rolling over like on a big Mal? any other ideas.
Thanks Paul
noosa grant
noosa grant
11 posts
11 posts
25 Oct 2007 6:06pm
it can be quite a challenge unless your surfing a point break with a channel. When its big on the open beaches here, it can be a mission to get out and you can feel quite helpless when you are getting pounded by the whitewater. I have discovered that there isnt much you can do when you get caught inside, except to wait for a lull and try and gun it. Once i start getting hammered by the whitewater i have found that instead of bailing and stretching or snapping my leggie, if its safe i will sit on the board with my legs dragging and paddle dragging so i dont end up surfing to shore! Ill just sit like this for a few waves and wait for a lull. paddling through the whitewash is all good once you get better, but if its anything above about shoulder high, its a recipe for disaster as the board and/or paddle can very quickly end up hitting you in the head and causing some damage. its pretty awkward to roll over with your paddle in hand as well. you can get away with sticking the paddle between your legs and paddling on your knees like on a clubbie board. this definitely helsp with your momentum.
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