Yesterday was big and wild, so I ventured further afield - 20 minutes south to a creek we havn't paddled for a while - was kinda hoping for a few runners up the mouth, but didn't happen
Hey I even deleted the foto and went into file and rotated it and pasted again - Bull****! Anyway, was too bumpy this morning and too crowded - nobody getting any good rides - a few terrifying out of control type ones tho - went out this arvo in the dying swell with minimal crowds - got two " Bombs" but no real wall to it - smaller ones ran thru but were slower as well - enjoyed myself! Steve ps : stating to feel at home on " sunova the one " - the board that has kept me surfing.
Burleigh Heads Mon 26 Enlarge if you can and check out the crowd at the base of the wave on 2nd pic
That is serious crowd - what percentage know what is going on? Felt lucky this arvo that there were a few inexperienced extras floating around, got a great wave, seemed like double ohead, but that might be because I got flogged - leggie snapped ( or actually the waist " leashlock " plastic bit broke. Swam about 150 meters throwing the paddle and chopping white water rinses on the way, still had 200 meters to go, But a young floater had my board and paddled it over with a smile - THANK YOU!