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> 10 years ago

Stand Up Paddle Foiling Board Talk & Reviews Wing Foiling

teatrea

QLD

4177 posts

teatrea

QLD, 4177 posts

17 Jan 2011 8:22pm

Any one got any books to reccommend on surfing the ocean ect.Finished a pretty good read Saltwater Buddah by Jaimal Yogis a surfers quest to find Zen of the Sea.Pretty good book , another one i read a few years ago was Neatural Bouyancy.

Any you can suggest.

beerssup

NSW

513 posts

beerssup

NSW, 513 posts

17 Jan 2011 10:01pm

Eddie would Go, you would love this one,Hooked Bob Mctavish,Occy Bio,Bustin down the door Rabbit Bio all give a really good picture of the surf scene at that time.Funny as f*** too

mbuzz

NSW

261 posts

mbuzz

NSW, 261 posts

17 Jan 2011 10:08pm

How about a fiction book?

Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn.

It's a great read for a bit of escapism.

teatrea

QLD

4177 posts

teatrea

QLD, 4177 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:13pm

beerssup said...

Eddie would Go, you would love this one,Hooked Bob Mctavish,Occy Bio,Bustin down the door Rabbit Bio all give a really good picture of the surf scene at that time.Funny as f*** too

Cheers mate have not read Eddie would go.Ill check that one out.

teatrea

QLD

4177 posts

teatrea

QLD, 4177 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:15pm

mbuzz said...

How about a fiction book?

Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn.

It's a great read for a bit of escapism.

I dont mind fiction based in fact , you shouldnt let the truth get in the way of a good storey

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

17 Jan 2011 7:23pm

MP
Occy
Nat's Nat and that's that, Nat Young
Stoked ,Bob Mctavish
Eddie Would Go
Pipedreams, KS

Another, not really surf related but for all
those who visit Bali is Hotel Kerobokan
Bali's most notorious jail.

mags

124 posts

mags

SA, 124 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:57pm

hey, A good read is CACTUS- surfing journals from solitude. its a keeper.

laceys lane

QLD

19804 posts

laceys lane

QLD, 19804 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:33pm

62mac said...

MP
Occy
Nat's Nat and that's that, Nat Young
Stoked ,Bob Mctavish
Eddie Would Go
Pipedreams, KS

Another, not really surf related but for all
those who visit Bali is Hotel Kerobokan
Bali's most notorious jail.

the mp one is a beauty

teatrea

QLD

4177 posts

teatrea

QLD, 4177 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:40pm

Yeah Lacey want to read that one too.

Daneli

QLD

1538 posts

Daneli

QLD, 1538 posts

17 Jan 2011 9:42pm

Breath - it's fiction but a bloody good read.

Two friends, Bruce "Pikelet" Pike and Loonie, outsiders if for different reasons, discover surfing, drawn to its intoxicating thrill in a way that is new to them. The breaks the teenagers surf are wild and often lonely but gradually they get to know some of the others who visit them, including the enigmatic Sando, a lone wolf, wild-man surfer. Through Sando, Pikelet and Loonie meet Eva, Sando's wife, a former champion freestyle skier crippled by a ruined knee.

As Sando initiates the two boys into the mysteries and terrors of surfing's outer reaches, encouraging, cajoling and finally bullying the two of them into joining him in taking greater and greater risks, they become a "select and peculiar club . . . a cult. Sando and his maniacal apprentices".
But as the waves they surf grow larger, the breaks more dangerous, Pikelet grows less easy with Loonie and Sando's patronage, until finally Sando and Loonie disappear overseas on a surfing trip in Indonesia. Left behind, Pikelet and Eva slip almost heedlessly into a sexual relationship, something Pikelet believes is love and Eva sees as something quite different.

Breath is not the first time Winton has written about surfing. Indeed, surfing is the backdrop to one of The Turning's strongest stories, Family, capturing in its detail something essential about the blending of thought and action, self and world riding waves can allow.

But in Breath that understanding is married to a sense of what Pikelet calls the "primary thrill of surfing, the huge body-rush we got flying down the line with the wind in our ears. We didn't know what endorphins were, but we quickly understood how narcotic the feeling was, and how addictive it became; from day one I was stoned from just watching".

The subject is one that allows Winton the space to unravel his remarkable linguistic gift for evoking place and the complex webs of association that bind people to the landscapes they inhabit. The repeated deployment of this gift to re-create the relatively confined setting of Winton's novels has led to him being regarded as a quintessentially Australian writer but in many ways Winton is better understood as the inheritor of the same American tradition as Cormac McCarthy, Annie Proulx or Jim Harrison, a tradition that for all its affinities with Carver's brand of pared-back social realism, owes its greatest debt to Faulkner.

It's unlikely Winton has ever written as well as he writes in Breath, a book that marries the lyricism of work such as Cloudstreet to the adamantine hardness of the stories in The Turning. Time and again his descriptions of the ocean and the littoral break free of the page, revealing this landscape with a clarity and an intimacy that lets us see it anew. Yet simultaneously this lyric imagination is given heft by the darkness behind it. For as Pikelet comes to realise, surfing may be beautiful but it is also something more: a pretext for a particular kind of male (and, as the ruined freestyler Eva demonstrates, sometimes female) risk-taking behaviour; a need for danger that is in its own way as addictive as drugs or drink or any one of a range of self-destructive behaviours.

The connections Breath draws between various sorts of risk-taking and addiction are persuasive, within the context of the novel and more broadly.

Blackant

TAS

20 posts

Blackant

TAS, 20 posts

17 Jan 2011 11:05pm

Daneli said...

Breath - it's fiction but a bloody good read.

Agree there, an awesome book, probably the one that got me into surfing

I liked Saltwater Buddha too

akhawk

1085 posts

akhawk

WA, 1085 posts

17 Jan 2011 8:07pm

Blackant said...

Daneli said...

Breath - it's fiction but a bloody good read.

Agree there, an awesome book, probably the one that got me into surfing

I liked Saltwater Buddha too

Agree with Breath. Would make a great movie too.

aus301

QLD

2039 posts

aus301

QLD, 2039 posts

18 Jan 2011 8:15am

I enjoyed most of the "Wave Within" Tom Carroll. Just got a bit boring when it started to recite comp results, in some cases it felt like it was heat by heat.

Tux

VIC

3829 posts

Tux

VIC, 3829 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:44am

Breath by Tim Winton
Dr Rips Essential Beach Book
The Surfers Mind
Bustin Down the door

ockanui

VIC

1321 posts

ockanui

VIC, 1321 posts

18 Jan 2011 8:54pm

There is a bloke that lives in Noosa ex lorne local who has a couple of crackin' books about the history of the sport in Oz, Murray Walding, the books represent a period when surf'n was a lifestyle and not just a fashion statement, anyway I digress,
1/ Blue Heaven by Murray Walding
2/ Surf o rama by Murray Walding { woops there is a photo of yours truly with a plastic ocka board circa 68' at lorne}
3/ Stoked, History of Surf Culture, by Drew Kampion and Bruce Brown
4/ A pictorial History of Surfing [1970] Paul Hamlyn
These are great books for the memorabilia section of your bookcase and a good read/ pictures

I have scored a few surf books in secondhand/ op shops, highly collectable
Also the MP book is an absolute rippa, followed closely by the Bob Mc book

Simondo

VIC

8025 posts

Simondo

VIC, 8025 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:14pm

There's a new "Peter Troy" book too....

MP & Bob McT (Stoked) books are great (as mentioned).

Mick Fanning book is very good.

Kelly Slater book is very good too.

Don't forget Da Cat, Mikey Dora. That's a great read too.

What is the best "Duke" book?? So much said about him....

-------------
www.dukeswaikiki.com/
~~http://www.dukeswaikiki.com/docs/DInner_for%20Web%20060310.pdf~~
I'll have some Sashimi, Kushiyaki, and Hula Pie for dessert !!
With a Mai Tai starter, and Lava Flow finish with dessert, shared with my lovely wife!

"Second Captain" night cap... Captain Morgan, banana liqueur, blended smooth with fresh bananas and a swirl of raspberry puree.
"Lava Flow" is - Blended pineapple juice, coconut syrup, strawberries and rum

ockanui

VIC

1321 posts

ockanui

VIC, 1321 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:21pm

simondo , with all he talk about Hawaii, all you need now is a Lai!

ockanui

VIC

1321 posts

ockanui

VIC, 1321 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:22pm

you know the one's they put around your neck!

Simondo

VIC

8025 posts

Simondo

VIC, 8025 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:25pm

I think it's time for a Hawaiian Party.... Best theme for a party. We've thrown a few, and they are always great fun.... One that I can remember, ended up with skinny dipping at North Avalon Beach (Sydney) at 2am. At our old beach house up there...

Simondo

VIC

8025 posts

Simondo

VIC, 8025 posts

18 Jan 2011 9:25pm

ockanui said...

you know the one's they put around your neck!

Yeah, GOLD!

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surfing books

teatrea

beerssup

mbuzz

teatrea

teatrea

62mac

mags

laceys lane

teatrea

Daneli

Blackant

akhawk

aus301

Tux

ockanui

Simondo

ockanui

ockanui

Simondo

Simondo

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