laceys lane said...i'll explain myself. i basically did shortboard sup for 2 and a half years, every day if not twice a day. getting boards shorter, more pulled in and refined on each board. the last board was a step rail 8'6 under a 100 litres. now the step rail is really good, but you don't get a lot of support/ stability outside of the very centre of the board. while the board surfed insane, i found myself prone paddling out of rips and swirls, after 3 days in a row i got too sore from holding me and the board upright and no matter how good a sup is, it's no shortboard.
the last day i surfed it i had some nice alley wide waves ,jm and myself were the only sups out so that was groovvvvy.
last wave in was my best, got the hollowest wave of the day.
thing is i got to the car and realized i was over it.
so i just stuck to the bigger sup boards for a while.
i did some shortboard surfing but had a terrible time of it.
anyway i had a few shortboard sessions over chrissy which was better, but kept paddling and surfing the big boys and was having fun again.
about a month ago i decided to get on the shortie again, remember it now about 4 months off the shortboard sups except for one go on a suplove. i was thinking to myself this is going to be very interesting not, but it was like i had never stopped short boarding- flow trim speed was instantly there. i was shocked(in a good way)
i've got this theory that shortboard sup ing is this weird mutant surf style all of its own where the big boards you have to have the basics right to surf them otherwise you just fall off and i'm finding this is really good for surfing shorties like it was when i started sup ping on an 11 footer rh.
so presently i'm happy surf ing12'6 s or 14' ers or bigger if i feel like it in small or fat of onshore rubbish and only surf the shortie in clean waves, no crowds, no point surfing. every time i surf the sb again it feels insane
. such a buzz effortlessly flying around, so i can't see myself getting a shortboard sup any time soon.
you would also be surprised at what you can do on this big suckers if you keep at it, look at noels surfing on the 12'6 fanatic. i've never been a longerboarder so i'm no stylemaster, but i'm getting to the stage where i can pump the bigun down the line shortboard style. funny watching guys faces when i do that
. fading and then cranking out a big bottom turn is a special feeling too
i'm not anti shortboard sup, just lost interest in it for the time being. i suppose if the alley wasn't there things might be different
cheers
ps i must add the last couple of years have been the time of my life ocean and surfing wise
,
.
