No offence intended with the comment yesterday Simondo
As I have said many times if I lived next to a long long point break I would have diff boards in my quiver. At home I surf beachies (good quality ones) 80-90% of the time and nasty reef breaks the balance. I also hit the road a lot for 1 to 2 day trips for long point breaks when conditions are good and work permits. These days I normally ride a 5'10" 2-4ft, a 6'2" from 2-3 to 6ft and a 6'6" from 4 and up. I also ride my 9'2" single fin from knee high and up. Soon a 10 footer will hit the quiver as well. Presently I am in the midst of ordering a bigger board for my Indo adventure later in the year and hope to make myself a nice 7 foot mid length at some point - just to see what all the fuss is all about
I really want one for those bigger days when the wind is up and the short board just gets bashed around and is infact pretty useless. You know when you just need a board with some meat in it to drive through the bumps and not toss you off.
I generally have a pretty good handle on what the surf is doing so I take two boards as a general rule. Normally the 5'10 and 6'2" are the staples in the car. Covers me 95% of the time. When its small like it has been this week I take the mal and 5'10" with me and when its good I take the 6'2" and 6'6".
Seems to keep me well covered for all options. If I have the wrong board I can be back at home in under 5 mins to change anyway.
We do not get that many big days here to be honest - probably 10 really big clean days a year - the rest of the big days you are surfing reefs that are sheltered and protected - so its head to head and half perfection. Its not often that we get a run of big swell like you get down your way or that the big cyclone deliver up north. East Coast Lows - if they hang out long enough can give us several days of big pumping surf - as long as they stay out to sea long enough and we get nice winds accompanying them. Where I live we have limited options for these big swell events and people tend to come from 50km north to 100km south to surf our spots if the swell event hits on a weekend ahhhhhhhh Mid week its a different story.
My 6'2" Potatonator has really become my go to board - surfs well in 90% of the conditions we get so that would probably be my go to board these days although I always always take the 5'10" out if I think it can handle it - ie no wind when it gets bigger. Its amazing how fast that board is - it has almost no rocker.
I am going to make myself a bigger board - been several times recently when one would have been useful. If I lived down your way I reckon I would have a few of them - maybe not as many as you though
