Just yesterday at Winki, got a beauty of a wave... Just on head high, but super clean.
Really clean swell, even though the much bigger "sectioning" swell of the previous day had backed right off. I was surfing Uppers (at Winki, right next to Bells Beach), and a larger wide rolled through. Saw it early, I was on the 9'6 Brewer, I was the only person with the paddle speed to get over to it... So naturally I stroke into it, and there was a jacking section peak that I had to pretty much "back door" for the takeoff, so I hug in, but didn't really get a cover up... Then pump down the line, flying... Line up the next section and it starts to tube a little... Go for a pull-in and got shoulder slapped... Small Winki isn't heavy so I rode out of it and maintained speed... and a bit more racing down the line after that... and a big cutback under the eventual close-out.
But all-in-all... It was a Joker, not an Ace...
