Hey Doggie, you work around Scabs yeh? Im off in 4 weeks now and started training last week. I bet if you have a 10 min jog in the sand or a swim b4 or after work every coupla days you'll notice a significent difference.
I know what your talkin about with the bigger boards. On my 6'7 paddling is definatly the key. I cant just spin around at the last minute and take a late drop like on my 6'3.
Focus on positioning , get a good "run up" and have the board at top paddle speed just b4 the wave starts to drain/pitch.
It takes a little longer to get the bigger board up to take off speed.
LAst thing you want is getting stuck in the lip, then over the falls and bouncing off razors

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Ahh what am I saying, youll be fine- you know what ur doin! Enjoy mate