YellowHelmet said..
I would like to have a handle in the bottom of my Slingshot Wizard 125 liter.

Did anybody ever try to make this DIY by making a small hole in the bottom of the board.

I guess in the middle in the center of gravity of the board with the foil mounted.

Or did anybody break his board around this place : are there reinforcements at that place I better not cut into pieces ?

I know people have had it done

I've been using this for a couple years:
liquidsurfandsail.com/sup-and-wing-board-handle/?sku=2000786&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp2000786&sc_intid=2000786&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADpOBrhYthyRtbnbKDw00hXjb1XuX

i honestly don't notice it foiling up, but i know it must have a small effect. Clean the board really well with water, soap and then IPA and it will be stuck on there like snot.

Buying a handle is not expensive
get the kidney shaped one not the square block looking thing as they are weak and can leak

the slingshot has a big core cell and carbon stringer so the router work is not fun.
use super slow epoxy resin so u don't melt it all

or come here I've done plenty

MOzCustoms
42 Daly St
South Fremantle

It's a very good idea
router hole
stick in with resin and qcell

sand a shallow depression and glass over

as an aside, have a good look there for creasing across the bottom the slingshots are notorious for it
if doing a handle it's a good opportunity to put a bit of repair effort in. actually not just creasing, if one concave is quite a bit deeper or vee is funny it shows it's trying to twist. Seen some real interesting ones

Hydrosurf said..
I read somewhere that the slingshot boards are a different construction than a regular sandwich windsurf board. Is that true?

Depends on the model my old 125 wizard V2 had a layer of carbon and what looked like 4oz.glass on the bottom the top had divinycell,carbon,glass on top.Freestyle models are more like wave windsurf construction.And yes you can crease the bottom

Mark _australia said..
It's a very good idea
router hole
stick in with resin and qcell

sand a shallow depression and glass over

as an aside, have a good look there for creasing across the bottom the slingshots are notorious for it
if doing a handle it's a good opportunity to put a bit of repair effort in. actually not just creasing, if one concave is quite a bit deeper or vee is funny it shows it's trying to twist. Seen some real interesting ones

Confirming that Mark does excellent work

Thanks man
I think the freight from Europe is the killer

That Amazon one was what I meant too

just make sure you put extra glue in the bottom seam the day before install to be safe

I've found these :



Handle SUP 5"

heartheart-full



GONG SUP carry handle of 5".Available in two colours: black and white.



Google this (I'm not allowed to send weblinks yet).

and


Surfboard Handle Stand Paddle Rectangle Board Hand Hold Konb SUP Surfboard Gripe

My Fanatic Stingray has the handle, thought I would love it but usually revert to holding the foil mast as easier to manage the gear in the shorebreak ... handle more a wing thing ....

Searoamer said..
My Fanatic Stingray has the handle, thought I would love it but usually revert to holding the foil mast as easier to manage the gear in the shorebreak ... handle more a wing thing ....

Which year do you have? Well I guess you said Fanatic & handle so that pretty much sets it. Have you tried the Duotone Stingray yet?

I got Mark to add a handle to my 125. He did a great job and I find it much easier to carry now. As said above only useful with the rig attached. Just moving the board I use the footstrap and mast.

He added rails while at it. That was actually the main thing I wanted as I couldn't get a new board but with rails I get a lot more choice of foils. He also found some spongy sections and fixed them.

Yes the purpose of the handle is to carry the board with a rig, mainly on land. Without rig it will be unbalanced.

I made a mistake when I wrote we have a 500 meter standing depth area.

I meant 500 meter difference between high water line and low water line, tidal height difference being about 6 meter sometimes.

But getting throught the shallow shore break zone with white rollers pounding on my head, carrying first pulling by the top of the sail, then pushing the gear through the impact zone, always wanting extra 2 hands, the sea bed ondulating a bit so not being able to start immediately when the foil is free, feels like a 500 meter ordeal. Lately I developed a technique I call upside/down waterstarting : when the water is around my chest I keep the foil upside but start like to waterstart while swimming with my legs so little by little I get pulled in the sea with the sail pressure (but sometimes the wave pressure wins on the sail pressure and I reverse back to the beach, and then revert to the older struggle technique). Once further out I try to waterstart with the foil in the water but don't let myself pull on the board right away but stay in the water for some extra meters because the sea bed is not flat and I could hit ground again.

Now I'm carrying the board and rig in 2 times over the 500 meter on land.

Lately I tried to carry the board on with the mast on/in my shoulder and the board on my back while balancing the sail with one hand. I call it the Jesus Christ style, most wingfoiler do it that way but their board is lighter and they only have a light wing not a windsurf rig. This works, not easy with the sail, sometimes I use the front foil as a sail stabilizer. But the mast hurts in my shoulder. Then I put some radiator tube insulation foam on my shoulders round my impact jacket as a protection. Is better but still hurts. Maybe I have something else I will try : I have special shoulder pieces from a motor bike impact jacket Leatt, 3df plastic.

There is also another way, but I'm not going to go that way anymore.

For many, many years I carried my windsurfboard and sail on my head. First the sail on my helmet, and the the board on the wishbone, holding the board with one hand, one hand free, turning the sail and board upwind or downwind as the wind shifted. I was quit good in this, could do it untill 35 knots. Always did this at the end of the day coming back when I was tired.

A small advice : don't do it. This is very bad for your spine, especially C6 - C7 because of the weight and mainly the movement of the board and rig. Believe me, now I'm OK but I will never carry things on my head anymore, like women in Africa carrying water bottles (if interested I can find a statistical study about it).

So my first thought was to carry foil board and rig that way, what would be especially easy for entering the shallow impact zone. But for this reason I will not do this.

I also saw a video of Balz Muller putting the board with the foil on the beach with rigg on the board, getting with his head under the board and lifting it that way. I think this is also a problem for C6 - C7. He gave it as advise for entering. But he is still young.

So right now I'm thinking :

- Jesus Christ style with shoulder protection, although this also pushes my spine and in a asymmetrical way.

- Using rope of belt between front foot straps or around the fuselage/mast.

- Installing the insert handle.

- Suction handle will maybe come off because of the concave form.

- Walking back and forth 2 times. By the way I carry the board holding 1 footstrap and the fuselage between front wing and stabilizer. Works quite good and the mast and stabilizer give a certain suspension feel when I run down the dune.

- Getting assistance of foil board sherpas

Any ideas are welcome, also systems for easier getting through the shallow impact zone.