BIC Techno 148L replacement

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vash68
vash68
7 posts
7 posts
13 Aug 2009 4:48am
Hi all,

I am considering replacing my BIC Techno 148L board (4-5 years old I think) with something more modern and most importantly with inboard straps position for intermediate sailor.

I have been windsurfing for 4 seasons now, 50% in open waters and 50% on lakes in Colorado, 1mi above sea level (my new home).
I am 150lbs, just under 70kg and 170cm tall.

When I travel to Hatteras (NC) and Cape Cod (MA) I normally rent a board of 140 to 155 liters in size.
I use harness all the time and own 6.0 NP, 7.0 NP camless and 7.5 m Ezzy sails.
I do begginner's jybe, non-plannig.

I can use straps without any problem on Exocet Nano 155 and Goya 145(?) - my common rentals.

However, back on Colorado lakes with a thin air blowing 12-17mph and gusting to 30 mph, using my BIC straps is a challenge - I can not get into the rear straps and stay there, they seem way too outboard for me and I catch water.
There is no inboard position for rear straps on this board, unless I install a single rear strap in the middle of the tail, but then I do not reach there and it is useless.

The other issues I have with my BIC board (or board AND local Colorado conditions):
- it does not seem to be easy to initiate a jybe and I am not improving on it at all, I think I am actually degrading between my trips to the ocean sad
- the board does not feel stable in the gusts and at high speeds, and with my marginal waterstart abilities, uphauling a sail in the gusty conditions gets quite challenging.


So there, these problems may sound like beginner's wining with not enough time on the water.
But I am still willing to throw more money onto my board upgrade (hope this helps):

So far I was considering:

Starboard Futura 133L
Fanatic Ray 140L
Tabou Rocket 135L

The problem with Fanatic boards is that they do not seem to be available here in US, at least from major online retailers, so not sure where to get it.
I am open to all suggestions

Thanks
jh2703
jh2703
NSW
1225 posts
NSW, 1225 posts
13 Aug 2009 8:44pm
Firstly, are you just updating your board or have you improved to the point where your ready to move to the next step. If your updating, any of the boards you mentioned would be ok.....but if your getting the board to improve your windsurfing then the boards you have listed would not be much different then what you already have, a drop of 10L would hardly be noticeable. Generally you only need a board with approximately 10L more than your body weight to be able to uphaul....but going from 148L to 80L would be a big leap, a board of 110-120L would be a excellent choice for your next board.

Boards of these sizes(110-120) generally have both inboard and outboard strap options, inboard straps do help with getting into the straps, but the outboard straps is where your going to find the real speed in your board. The outboard straps require you to really commit your weight to the harness other wise the board will just spin up wind because you over weight your feet and the inside rail, you have to make sure your planing first then apply all your weight through the harness and then go for the front strap, don't stab at it...just nice and smooth. Once in the front strap steady the board, keep the weight in your harness not on your feet, then slowly slide you back foot back along the board until you feel the back strap and pivot your toes into the strap and then slide the rest of your foot in, don't let the back foot lose contact with the board. Whatever you do while going for the straps don't look at your feet, have a quick look to see that the straps are still there then look back to where your going and feel for the straps.

As for catching the water, maybe your not fully planing when going for the straps, or maybe your straps are to tight for you to get your foot into the correct position also your board may not be trimmed right, try pushing through your toes to flatten the board.

As for the feeling of not improving between your trips to the ocean, this is something I have first hand knowledge of. The ocean water is more buoyant and the seabreeze more consistent, it just make everything easier then when sailing on a gusty freshwater lake. But in the end that experience you get from freshwater sailing in less than ideal conditions is going to make you a better windsurfer.

For the gybe, speed is your friend....without it you can't gybe. just go in at full speed and step right over onto the rail near the back strap and apply consistent pressure. So try this, sail of the wind at full speed, move your back hand way back down the boom(way back), unhook from the harness and get down low, start the turn, lean into the turn and sheet in hard with the back hand while fully extending the front arm....look where you want to go, you'll know when to flip the rig because it will go very light, make sure when you flip the rig your front hand slides to the front of the boom otherwise the rig flip will be heavy and you will get the sail ripped out of your hand when it powers up. Practice heaps and soon you'll be planing through your gybes.

The board not feeling stable is probably caused by the size of fin you have, your board would likely have a 45-50cm fin as standard, when you get fully powered on a 6-7 meter sail your fin will be generating a huge amount of lift, try a smaller fin and i think you'll find the board will sit better in the water. Also just being a big board they tend to get pushed around by the wind and chop and unless you have weight on your side it will be hard to hold it down.

Any of the new boards these days are good, it just comes down to personal preference. I can vouch for the Fanatics, I have 3 in my kit now and i also learnt on one. I have now switched to JP, they are awesome boards...best I've ridden to date for ease of riding and footstrap options.

Go for a 120L JP Excite ride, you won't be sorry and you'll have this board for a long time to come, As you improve and buy a smaller board the 120 will become your light wind ocean cruiser and you lake board. The you'll have a 80L wave board for the ocean and you'll be set.

Here is a list of boards used for my progression, I weigh 95kgs.
Learner:180L
Beginner:145L
Intermediate:120L
Int/Advanced:113L(lake)/95L(ocean)
I'm just starting my third season and hope to be riding an 80L board by the end of this season....I sail a lot and this is the number one reason for progression WATER TIME.

Hope this was some help....cheers.
ddevil
ddevil
WA
43 posts
WA, 43 posts
13 Aug 2009 11:16pm
I learned on a Techno II 148l and still have it . The shape is a couple of years old but it's a good shape. It hasn't got enough nose rocker for bigger chop though IMHO. Ocassionally I blasted through chop instead of getting over it at 20kn wind on our local bay. Also due to its construction the Bic is noticeable heavier than other boards, especially if you compare it with the better versions.

On my board there are three settings for the back straps. Outboard, slightly further inboard and single in center. I strongly suggest to use the single center setting, it's much easier to get in compared to the outboard position. I only moved to outboard once I was comfortable with getting into the center strap. Also you need to be quite powered up to get into the outboard straps. I can't quite understand why you can't get into the center strap!? It's not further away from the front straps than the ouboard position.

For the front straps use the slightly more inboard setting as well at first. There is no real inboard position for the front straps as on other boards, but IMHO this position doesn't make much sense for a board this size. Only for learning at the very beginning.

The standard BIC footstraps are comfy, but the adjustement is crap. I found it impossible to make them wide. Even for my small feet they are just wide enough. If you have bigger feet than the problem could be that you can't get your feet far enough into the straps. How far can you get into the straps? Do your toes stick out completely?

As for your non-planing jibes don't forget to put some pressure on the back foot. No pressure there and the board won't pivot around. IMHO the Techno pivots and carves quite nice for its size without needing too much pressure (I'm 80kg though).

I think for higher wind speeds you need a smaller fin. Well, or a smaller board . My BIC came with a 50cm fin which generates a lot of lift when it's windier. But up to about 20kn I was usually alright.

I think sailing on a lake with very gusty winds is not easy. When I started windsurfing I sailed quite often on a small lake with gusty winds as well. Sometimes it was quite frustrating, especially when I learned how to use a harness. The good thing with the BIC board is that even massive catapults with the mast onto the nose hardly leave a scratch .

I reckon a lighter board that accelerates quicker is nicer in gusty winds. If you want to go smaller keep in mind that uphauling or non-carving jibes will get more difficult. 135-140l is no big difference though.

Just keep on sailing and you will improve!
vash68
vash68
7 posts
7 posts
14 Aug 2009 2:18am
Thanks guys for all your input, I feel like I received a few great ws lessons in a process of selecting a new board, and I will be practicing accordingly!

1. The goal is definitely to keep progressing, and looking at dimensions of my Techno2 148l and Starboard Futura 133l I see almost no difference, and now you proved my suspicion - 133l modern shape board is not going to be different much from 148l board with 3-4 year old shape. Got that sorted out, now more questions – 125l should be OK for me?
However, the single thing that kept me from going with lower volume was the fact about lower buoyancy in fresh water and thin wind at higher altitudes where I live. The former point is easy, but what do I care about the latter when I am considering a board volume?

2. jh2703, I will print out your reply and put in my gear bag so I can refer back to it whenever I am on the water, thanks for such insightful look, no matter how many ed movies I watched, I could not get this close to those two techniques: getting into the straps and jybing.

You are correct, I am stubbing my feet into the straps and sometimes BEFORE I am really on a plane - getting a lil desperate here on the lake to get on a plane ;)

Also, you and ddevil were both correct - my footstraps seem too tight, my toes are not sticking out fully - will adjust for my next session, good catch!
I replaced original BIC straps with Dakine, also used, but they work better.

Ddevil, I use outboard setting for my front footstraps. When I have a single back strap in a center position, the biggest problem there is that I can not keep the board going upwind with that setup. It seems that my proper (or comfortable) rear foot position is about 5cm further inboard from original back strap position on this board.
BTW, my buddy who sold me this board, had the same issue with back straps and he always used a single strap on the back. He had moved on to JP 116l from this board..

3. Fins – of top of my head, I think I use 50cm fin most of the time, the other one is 60cm(?) and I hardly ever used it with my 7.5m (biggest sail) since I did not feel any difference – probly just don’t know the right approach to fin vs sail vs speed or as you noted. So if I sail on 7.0m most of the time in 12-15mph gusting to 25mph winds, should I try 40cm fin for stability?


Thanks guys!

Will go ask my boss for more watertime now :)

mineral1
mineral1
WA
4564 posts
WA, 4564 posts
14 Aug 2009 10:50am
Keep your techno, fun board for light wind days.
ka43
ka43
NSW
3105 posts
NSW, 3105 posts
14 Aug 2009 2:05pm
Vash,
Your weight at 150 lbs is fine for a 40cm fin on a 7.0 sail. Great for light winds or thin winds as you live at altitude. Thing is, if it gets quite strong then you wont have the body weight/leverage to hold the board on the water as the fin develops more lift.
I reckon you would be happy on a JP Xcite ride 130.
Cheers.
ddevil
ddevil
WA
43 posts
WA, 43 posts
17 Aug 2009 4:19pm
vash68 said...


You are correct, I am stubbing my feet into the straps and sometimes BEFORE I am really on a plane - getting a lil desperate here on the lake to get on a plane ;)

[...]

Ddevil, I use outboard setting for my front footstraps. When I have a single back strap in a center position, the biggest problem there is that I can not keep the board going upwind with that setup. It seems that my proper (or comfortable) rear foot position is about 5cm further inboard from original back strap position on this board.
BTW, my buddy who sold me this board, had the same issue with back straps and he always used a single strap on the back. He had moved on to JP 116l from this board..


Don't go in the straps before planing! I tried this and ended up pointing upwind all the time .

Hmmm, of course outward back straps are better for going upwind and faster etc. But I sailed a fair bit with one center back strap and never had any issues going upwind. I assume we are talking fully planing here, otherwise back foot shouldn't be in the strap anyway.

Not sure what the problem is. Would need to know more about your setup. Maybe just not enough wind. What harness line length are you using?

vash68 said...


3. Fins – of top of my head, I think I use 50cm fin most of the time, the other one is 60cm(?) and I hardly ever used it with my 7.5m (biggest sail) since I did not feel any difference – probly just don’t know the right approach to fin vs sail vs speed or as you noted. So if I sail on 7.0m most of the time in 12-15mph gusting to 25mph winds, should I try 40cm fin for stability?


Yes, I'd try 40-44cm. Still the board is fairly wide, so it can catch wind. I found outboard back straps help here because then you can put more pressure on the rail. A small fin will make getting upwind harder though.

For a smaller board I would suggest 120-130l. If you really only have 12-15mph on average then maybe 130l to get going. Try different demo boards, friends boards etc. if you can and see how it goes before you buy anything. And definitely consider buying the better/lighter pro versions of whichever board you buy. They do get on the plane quicker and are more fun.

My next smaller board was a JP Xcite 110l. I think they are nice boards as they are very easy to sail, but still reasonably fast and plane very early. On light patchy days I'm still amazed sometimes how my Xcite glides through lulls.
steveBayside
steveBayside
VIC
169 posts
VIC, 169 posts
19 Aug 2009 2:45pm
I learnt fairly recently on a 155L Starboard Carve, no centre strap position, and at first found the back strap tricky, but got used to it.

for me, trick is into back strap first and out of back strap last.
(ive discussed this and found opinion divided)

I'd get planing standing forward of the straps so i knew there was enough wind to commit to the straps, then turn the board upwind slightly to stall it some at which point you can support your weight on the rig by leaning forward and weighting the front foot, edge your unweighted foot around into the back strap, back leg extended.
In this position with the front foot forward of front straps and back leg extended you are in a good position to keep going upwind, or by shifting your weight back and pointing downwind to get on to the plane. I find a marginal plane much better with back foot in and front foot forward of straps, then its easy to get the front foot in when ready.
When the wind dies I pull the front foot out and put it forward of straps (maybe more centered across the board if your falling leeward) and keep the back foot in the strap, you're in a good position for upwinding in a lull for a short time, and from here its easy to get back on the plane and then return the front foot into straps. if the wind really dies or stays down youve got to get out of the back strap.

Anyone else care to discuss back vs. front strap first ?

I still go back strap first on 100L board but strap is central so its easier to get into.
My mate could not do back strap first at all.
ddevil
ddevil
WA
43 posts
WA, 43 posts
21 Aug 2009 4:45pm
steveBayside said...


Anyone else care to discuss back vs. front strap first ?


Steve, I reckon you should try it the other way around . Yes, you can do back strap first but the only advantage (I have heard) is that is easier to do for some begginners. But it'll make early planing harder and I don't think it is helpful in the long run. My 2 cents:

When you're about to get planing and into the footstraps don't go upwind. This will effectively prevent you from getting on the plane as there is less power in the sail to compensate your weight hanging of the boom. You have to bear off! How much you bear off depends on how easy it is to get planing (wind, board size etc.). If you have plenty of power you don't have to bear off much.

Don't get in the foot straps before planing as a beginner or on a big board. It's not necessary and will only get a bad habit. If you ask why, try this: put the back straps on your 100l into the outboard positions and try to get into the straps before you are planing.

Putting weight on your front foot which is in front of the footstraps (in the rocker section of the board) will *not* help you getting on the plane. The opposite is better. By hanging off the boom while putting your front foot in the strap you unweight the front section of the board which actually helps the board getting on the plane. At the same time you can stear the board with your back foot, which is in front of the rear straps. Finally, get your rear foot in as jh2703 described.

When you're about to fall off the plane (marginally planing) I found it helps to get the back foot out of the strap and put it right in front of the rear strap on the rail. Again, If you take the front foot out first and put it before the front straps you only stall the board and fall off the plane (this I actually tried).

You need to be able to plane with front foot in strap and back foot out of strap to do jibes. So it's a good idea to get used to it.
vash68
vash68
7 posts
7 posts
27 Aug 2009 2:58am
OK guys, after carefully reading all of your suggestions, and trying to be as much as possible on the water over the past two weekends, here is what worked for me:
1. opening rear footstraps to stick my foot further inside worked like a charm! No more catching water with my heels and looking at the straps! Now I can actually control the board by pivoting my feet and avoid spin-outs (ohh those nasty spin outs I used to get..)
2. pointing the board severely downwind to gain speed before getting into footstraps - this must be this particular board's feature, it must be heavy or something.
3. shortening harness lines in order to transfer more of my 150lbs weight onto a sail - this experiment is still in progress.
4. using 35cm fin with 7m sail - made for a more stable board at high speeds I think
5. more stable wind at 15-20mph (surprise, surprise :) as oppose to a more typical Colorado winds with prevaling 15mph speed gusting to 30mph a few times per minute

And thanks to your advise (and some other folks) I am seriously considering JP Excite Ride now, just not sure which volume to go with: 120 or 130L
And I will most likely to keep my Techno 148L for using with bigger sails once I can handle 7.5m+ sail.

Thanks guys!
steveBayside
steveBayside
VIC
169 posts
VIC, 169 posts
27 Aug 2009 4:24pm
ddevil said...

steveBayside said...


Anyone else care to discuss back vs. front strap first ?


Steve, I reckon you should try it the other way around. Yes, you can do back strap first but the only advantage (I have heard) is that is easier to do for some begginners


Yes and I was quoting in the context of beginning on a big board

Turining upwind will stop you planing of course, but at the edge of the wind you can open the sail to the wind whilst stalled to get into the back strap, then head downwind without catapult risk. Not a technique i use anymore but easier when learning than trying to get in whilst blasting over chop.

I don't think it matters where your feet are before you plane as long as you dont let the board know ! Between the mast & my feet i can put various weight on any of the 3 so the board will not know the difference. I can put my back foot further back if it has less weight on it and the board doesnt know.
I can get backfoot in 1st with the external straps on the 100L and I can gybe (sometimes) so then i do remove back foot first.

In fact I tried front footing first yesterday and it did not seem tricky for me to do anymore, so I'm going to stick with it.






pyroice42
pyroice42
QLD
9 posts
QLD, 9 posts
3 Sep 2009 1:52am
I have a Techno 148 Litre as well and can similar issues with the back strap and chopp. It's good to hear that you guys had similar issues to me. I'll keep on keeping on. Thanks guys.
Kokopelli
Kokopelli
VIC
35 posts
VIC, 35 posts
29 Sep 2009 12:27pm
Hey Vash68,

I also have the Bic Techno 148 lt and have experienced similar problems as you have described. I bought my Bic Techno after sailing on a friends so I knew what I was getting myself into but these problems still caused me to wonder about my choice. Over time I worked through them and I feel that it maybe something that everyone needs to do to progress along the learning curve (I thought you shouldn't have to with a brand new board.....). I have sailed on inland lakes before and I was disappointed more often than not due to gusty inconsistent winds. I also do not live close to the ocean or bay so my opportunities for good wind were limited to about 5 - 6 decent sails a year. Anyway, back to the board......

The stock Bic foot straps on the Techno are rubbish! Once you take your foot out the neoprene cover pulls them back small again meaning everytime you go to put you foot back in you have to wriggle and shove your foot around to get into them causing you to lose concentration, unsettle the board and then lose speed and control and it all falls apart from there. Two solutions:

1st - Buy new footstraps. Quick, easy but expensive. ( I had a spare set of NP on an old board.)

2nd - Cut the neoprene cover on one end of the standard Bic straps. This cover is what pulls the strap smaller. If you unscrew one end of the strap and cut the neoprene cover where it joins the main part where your foot slides under to the part that surrounds the screw point. Separate these two and your footstrap will stay open. Only cut one side or the strap cover will roll around as your foot goes in and out. Do not remove the left over part of neoprene that covers the screw or you will end up with sore toes if you kick it. (If anyone needs it, I will post a picture. Let me know)

I like to wear booties so I have my straps extra wide. I have found fixing this strap issue has solved many of my problems and allowed me to continue to progress again. Getting your straps open properly will move both your front and back foot more inboard to the correct position and give you more control.

Fin:

I use the 48cm stock select ride fin with all my sails ( 4.7 - 7.4m ) and only find the board to be a little unruly when the wind gets over 28 knots with the 4.7m or 5.0m. and I use this behaviour as an indicator of time to make some adjustments. I have found by raising the boom an inch or two to get some more mast foot pressure and weight in the harness and one cm less outhaul to allow the sail to spill some extra wind....the whole thing settles down and becomes much more forgiving and responsive. I have sailed it with the 4.7m in 35+ knots on the Sandy Point speed course last summer and found the Bic to be a surprisingly fast and controlled board for its size.

Getting in the straps:

With your footstraps now staying open this should be a whole lot easier and may not be a problem anymore. I put my front foot in with my back foot close by on the centre line. Once I get up and planing (I mean really planing....not just planing) then I shuffle my back foot next to the foot strap, keeping my back foot pressure light, bear away slightly and weight my harness, looking forward and then move the foot into the back strap.

Gybing:

Try changing to a more curved smaller freeride fin....say 30 - 35cm. I think the Selectride 48 cm works fine though but that may be what I have become used to.

Heavy:

Yes it is heavier but that is what makes the Bic so durable and able to withstand so many catapults and mast impacts with no damage. I shudder to think what some of my crashes would have done to a lighter, weaker (more expensive) board? I am sure there would have been tears involved.

Updating the Bic 148 lt:

I am in the same position as you as far as deciding what and when to update. At this stage I am going to sit tight and continue with the BIC 148 until I have my planing carve gybes nailed completely. The Bic is a very forgiving board for learning to gybe. Its bouyancy, speed and shape allowed me to progress from no gybes at all to making some gybes to making the occasional planing gybe reasonably quickly. Given that, I am reluctant to move to a smaller volume board until my skills allow me to take full advantage of the smaller volume and more lively handling. But......everyday I go out and try to perfect my gybing is one day closer to buying that new board. I would also be considering something in the 105 - 120 lt freeride or FSW style for my 90 kg body weight. When the time comes the Bic will still remain as the board I will use if I am going for a mid week solo sail or far off shore.

Anyway.....fix those footstraps one way or the other and see what difference it makes for you. Good Luck.
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