a creased board has an area (usually from rail to rail) where the board has failed either undertension or compression.

it used to be very common on wave boards back in the polyester days due to flat landings or high jumps.

it can be fixed if the damage is not too bad but i would not bother myself.

no

Here's an idea of how to go about fixing it -- note that this is a crease near the nose, a crease near the footpads is more difficult to do.

boardlady.com/seatrendnose.htm

It is pretty major to fix.

If you don't have any gear like vac pump, glass, epoxy, divinycell etc, figure on $400 materials and a month to fix it. And even then you may find the rocker line of the board has changed just enough to make it sail funny.

Maybe whoever gave me a red thumb can enlighten us all about how it is sooo easy and cheap to fix a sandwich board that is creased properly

anything can be fixed.. i am sailing with a carbon repair across the deck between the mast track and the front straps. that was a crease, no problem. and my last board had a carbon repair across the bottom after a crack from rail to rail... if fixed well with carbon its fine, and with stuff all weight gain.

here in brasil the italian guy who fixes them does about 1-2 per week.. ( u dont throw out a brand new board just cause its snapped) he doesnt use vacuum pump, just sands it back and sets woven carbon (same stuff that shows thru the limited finish) over the crease or crack, finish the repair with micro bubbles.. jobs done. its stronger than any other part on the board.. he charges 110aud for a complete rail to rail repair, takes 3 days.

what board is it? whats the rest of it like? cheap?

barn said...

anything can be fixed.. i am sailing with a carbon repair across the deck between the mast track and the front straps. that was a crease, no problem. and my last board had a carbon repair across the bottom after a crack from rail to rail... if fixed well with carbon its fine, and with stuff all weight gain.

here in brasil the italian guy who fixes them does about 1-2 per week.. ( u dont throw out a brand new board just cause its snapped) he doesnt use vacuum pump, just sands it back and sets woven carbon (same stuff that shows thru the limited finish) over the crease or crack, finish the repair with micro bubbles.. jobs done. its stronger than any other part on the board.. he charges 110aud for a complete rail to rail repair, takes 3 days.

what board is it? whats the rest of it like? cheap?

Barn, I think the reasoning that Eva the boardlady uses is that you need to repair like materials with like to get the same performance of the materials.

I wonder if these boards repaired at Jeri are lasting long term. Does the carbon reinforcement make a very stiff area that creates further problems in the future?

I guess there may also be a big difference between something that has a crease and something that is just about to tear in two all the way through. Maybe you can stop/repair a minor crease if you get it at the right point with just carbon?

It would be interesting to see how well these ex-demo boards from the major hire centres in Egypt and elsewhere last. They must get a lot of a working in just one season.

That is what I call a temporary fix (especially in the middle of the board like that)and only for slalom / race boards. No jumping hi on that one!

The repaired area is stronger than the rest, and the boundary line where the repaired area and original laminates meet there will be a break eventually. If you jumped that board it would break exactly along that boundary.

The only way to truly fix it is to remove the sandwich layer/s completely, repair the styro cracks underneath with expanding polyurethane (the real stuff not the pressure pack gap filla from Bunnings) and re do the sandwich layers.
The area removed and replaced need to be exact same construction, and in a diamond shape or on a big diagonal so there is no boundary line running across the board. Ideally the sandwich layers need to be bevelled so they blend in gradually with the existing layers... in effect the repair is angled in all 3 dimensions. I'll post a pic of a small one I did

All that is usually out of the reach of the average sailor and very time intensive.

the tabou repair was a structural failure, there was no strength left in the board. and yes the inside layer of glass under the dyvinicel was not repaired to the original construction.. as i said this guy does this repaid 1-2 times a week. he lives here. and between board repair and his storage center its his only source of income. these repaired boards last, its in his intrest for them to last. there are still old boards being sailed here hard by local kids with this very same repair. and i jumped mine just fine. his personal board (skate 100) has this repair done on the top and the bottom from separate repairs.

before i saw these boards i would not have trusted the repair. i would have routed out the damage. injected micro bubbles into the foam. inserted glass under the original dyvinicell. layed down fresh dyvinicell bla bla bla repair the board exactly how it was made. (this is the process i was taught by a fat russian board repair oracle, who spoke no english and had a 6ft super model for a girlfriend).

the repair on the acid is not from landing jumps. thats a collapsed deck from heavy heels and needs to be fixed from the inside out.. carbon on the outside cant fix that. and i would fix it the russians way. the acid repair pictured is how a center board gets fixed, quick and easy. but without getting the new glass in and under the original bottom layer of glass the repair is not factory spec, just like robbos repairs.. but who cares it works.

I so fully agree with Mark Oz. That repair looks so temporary, it's not a matter of if it will break again it's just when A week in Gero would sort that board out.
A strip of carbon on one side of the sandwhich is not going to be as stiff a the original sandwhich it butts up against.
and the black stuff you sometimes see under those half finished looking boards is sometimes just black pigment in the resin not carbon fibre.

Barn,

I dunno how you can say the break in my Acid was heel dents??!!! Your heels go where the black bits are (they are the foam heel bumpers under the pads) The break is right between front and back straps, it just so happens that a couple fo cracks close to each other looks like a depressed circle but it wasn't. It was classic hi jumping crease action.

As to your last post, sorry but I don't think 2 months of use on a board proved it was a proper or good repair.