Forums > Windsurfing General

My latest board refurb(s)

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Created by sausage > 9 months ago, 1 Sep 2014
sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
1 Sep 2014 12:48PM
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My old circa 2000 JP FSW which the kids use had been looking a little sad and the non-slip had all worn off so I decided on a quick refurb. Never liked the overly long nose so took it off (and as you can tell it was all by eye so a little rough). Refaired, glassed the nose, repainted and threw some stickers I had lying around. Did my first non-slip with the Intergrain granules and it worked better than expected (actually better than the factory non-slip that comes with most boards nowadays).

Before


After












Also finished my CA SP50 with non-slip and a few stickers.








FormulaNova
WA, 13108 posts
1 Sep 2014 10:51AM
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Phew! For a second there, I thought the first picture was the result

It looks good after, even if it has changed brands.

Good to see the worlds best footstraps too.

sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
1 Sep 2014 12:58PM
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Kids like stickers!

Yeah Formula, from JP to Starboard (all made in the same factory to exacting standards ) - actually the construction back then was superb as this board has been abused for a very long time.

ikw777
QLD, 2995 posts
1 Sep 2014 1:23PM
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Nice! What paint did uou use?

KA360
NSW, 780 posts
1 Sep 2014 1:31PM
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Just finished one too.






The bottom




This is the bottom of a very special board I have used to get lots of kids planning within a week of starting to learn to windsurf. The top paint job and modifications will be revealed next week:




sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
1 Sep 2014 1:46PM
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Nice work Akim. Is that last board a 2003/4 JP FSW?

Select to expand quote
ikw777 said..
Nice! What paint did uou use?

All acrylic - $10 a can from Supercheap auto. The grey is the SCA Filler putty (that Kimba uses on his boards) with a clear acrylic spray coat over which seems to harden / protect the surface.

keef
NSW, 1994 posts
1 Sep 2014 4:55PM
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work of art snags it looks more like a decal , nice job on the stickers aswell

AusMoz
QLD, 1268 posts
1 Sep 2014 6:11PM
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I think some glitter and a dash of pink would of been really really nice snags!

Good Work

KA360
NSW, 780 posts
1 Sep 2014 8:15PM
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Select to expand quote
sausage said..
Nice work Akim. Is that last board a 2003/4 JP FSW?



Its a 07or 08 pro edition freestyle,the lightest JPs ever made . JP went more newschool after that , lost its awesome forward acceleration with more emphasis on going backwards and they sadly gained a lot of weight.

FormulaNova
WA, 13108 posts
1 Sep 2014 6:28PM
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Select to expand quote
KA360 said..


The bottom





Hey, someone who has a kitchen messier than mine! However I suspect its your other house/building project.

Every kitchen should be used to build boards. You can cook in the garage.

tilldark
QLD, 275 posts
1 Sep 2014 10:04PM
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Hot those are great efforts snags make sure you bring that speed board to burrum so Jas can drool on the paint job

sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
2 Sep 2014 12:13AM
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Someone just PM'd me regarding the non-slip so I thought the below outline might assist anyone wanting to do their own boards.

Just used epoxy resin (Bote Cote non-yellowing 2:1 ratio). 50 to 60 grams/mils will easily cover a board with a tiny amount of spare resin left over. Grab a small short hair roller from Supercheap auto ($3.50). Make sure the roller is wet with resin but not dripping (so work the resin out in the roller tray) and roll the entire board making sure not to miss any areas. Resin coating should be very thin so make sure there's no excessive build up. No need to hurry (but don't dawdle) as epoxy will give you enough time to sprinkle the granules over. Easiest way to broadcast the granules is drill the lid of the Intergrain container with a 2mm bit heaps of times to approx half the lid (semi-circle) - make sure you've done this before mixing up resin though.

Hold the container about 30-40cm above board surface and tap the container as you go to get a nice even spread. Be quite generous with the broadcasting as the grains that don't stick will just fall off once it's all set (in fact you can blow away any excess that hasn't stuck to the resin).

Usually it'll take 4-5hours for resin to be touch dry but 24hours to ensure it's fully cured. Wash or brush down or just leave until your next sail.

Tips - make sure board is clean and don't touch it with your bare hands after cleaning down
-remove masking tape almost as soon as you've finished broadcasting granules
- if unsure do a test run on an old board or similar surface just to get a feel. It'll only set you back a roller and a small amount of resin.

Next job I do I'll coat the entire board in the epoxy as it gives a lovely gel coat finish to the flatter acrylic paint - Then I'll do the second masked out non-slip coat.
I suspect there's proper gelcoats for this purpose but the epoxy resin appears to do the job .

Please feel free to correct me if there's any misinformation - I'm only offering my very limited experience.

Mark _australia
WA, 21343 posts
1 Sep 2014 10:29PM
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^^ yes
I'd add:
foam roller is better IMHO, and run the intergrip thru a very fine kitchen seive from a bit of height so as to have very little dropping on the resin but evenly...

(EDIT dunno WTF is with red thumbs I thought it was a good run down and your pics speak for themselves, its a good job!)

keef
NSW, 1994 posts
2 Sep 2014 12:29AM
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great job snags , can I add to the do's and don'ts

pick a day with low humidity and get it done early , if you leave it too late in the day or high humidity you could have a chance the sugar will melt before the resin has cured

sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
2 Sep 2014 8:36AM
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*Intergrip granules by International Paints......not Intergrain. Was specifying Intergrain the other day so must have had it on my brain.

www.whitworths.com.au/

www.yachtpaint.com/aus/pro/products/special%20products/intergrip.aspx

FormulaNova
WA, 13108 posts
2 Sep 2014 7:55AM
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Select to expand quote
keef said..
great job snags , can I add to the do's and don'ts

pick a day with low humidity and get it done early , if you leave it too late in the day or high humidity you could have a chance the sugar will melt before the resin has cured



Keef, the method Sausage is using uses acrylic bits as the non-slip. You can buy a jar of this from Whitworths.

Kel71
QLD, 65 posts
2 Sep 2014 12:46PM
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Nice one Snags! Can I have my CA50 that I LENT you at Burrum back PLEASE!

sausage
QLD, 4870 posts
2 Sep 2014 1:07PM
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Select to expand quote
Kel71 said..
Nice one Snags! Can I have my CA50 that I LENT you at Burrum back PLEASE!


Yeah no problems, I just have to find a hammer big enough that matches your head so I can put that hole in the bottom and on the rail again I'll let you look at it next year and maybe even let you touch it!

Mark _australia
WA, 21343 posts
4 Sep 2014 9:21PM
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My latest project in the man cave: the Trailer 90





Works as a single so must be 3x better now.


How's the product placement for ya there Ben?

firiebob
WA, 3063 posts
6 Sep 2014 8:42PM
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Hey Brian, you're a clever little sausage

Nice job mate

KA360
NSW, 780 posts
1 Oct 2014 8:52PM
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Sunday we had a 20 kn NE'er with hot weather and Elli tried out her new board .



The second rear mounted mast track meant she could easily get into the footstraps even when using a tiny 2m sail.

She says the bottom looks like a watermelon.










Haggar
QLD, 1651 posts
2 Oct 2014 12:17PM
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Really impressed by these refurbs great work all ! Has anybody put new cutout designs in older boards ? I'm thinking of iSonics and Futuras. Or are these designs integral to rocker and tail shape and shouldn't be messed with ?

Jas71
QLD, 384 posts
2 Oct 2014 12:54PM
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I've been thinking the same, i'll be interested the hear everyone's thoughts as well



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"My latest board refurb(s)" started by sausage