CLR

Then any remainder with a little sandpapering if you're fussy

Gumption

seem its crazy Friday ,I'd be getting the grinder on that

ptsf1111 said..
If the screws are as rusty as the stains indicate, you might be better off using new ones. I replaced foot straps recently and reused the old screws with a corroded head and one snapped when tightening. I was glad it didn't snap on the water but was a pain to get the screw out without the head.

Might have to check.

Ranex, but I would wash it off quickly and thoroughly.

sboardcrazy said..

Mark _australia said..
CLR

Then any remainder with a little sandpapering if you're fussy

Thanks. I used some CLR and it helped. I wasn't sure if it would dissolve anything so I was pretty cautious.

I believe that CLR is mostly just phosphoric acid. They used to put it in Coca Cola.

Why is there such crap quality control on footstrap screws? I don't think I have ever owned a board which has had all of them made from non rusting steel. Usually just one or two stain the footpads.

mikey100 said..
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new board.

They don't make them anymore.. The boards all good. I just replaced the tail plate adjuster screw with a new on and it's as good as new.

Mr Milk said..
Why is there such crap quality control on footstrap screws? I don't think I have ever owned a board which has had all of them made from non rusting steel. Usually just one or two stain the footpads.

It's not the QC to blame. The screws are not 100% stainless steel as that probably doesn't exist or won't be strong enough. It'll always corrode when exposed to salt water and oxygen after some time so it's a matter of replacing them after a few years depending on the climate you live in.

Mr Milk said..
I just cleaned the same amount of staining by going back to chemistry basics. All acetates are soluble, so a squirt of vinegar over the area, soak a few minutes, scrub with a toothbrush, rinse, repeat and it's not quite as good as new, but the obvious stain has disappeared

A nice easy solution.

Sue there is a variety of diffent sizes and threads. best to take the old screw with you, and make sure the replacement is high quality stainless

Shifu said..

sboardcrazy said..
I've moved my footstraps forward a hole and there's rust stains left from the previous position.
What's the best way to clean it up ?

Continuous, unrelenting, hardcore sailing will wear it off.

Can you provide some wind please? Just coming back to the real world after a trip to Lake George..

This is why I prefer plastic plugs. I've had plugs with metal rust and split then leak on some older boards.

Gestalt said..
This is why I prefer plastic plugs. I've had plugs with metal rust and split then leak on some older boards.

Doesn't plastic have its own life as well? I am surprised that high quality stainless steel fixtures are not available. They are speciality items so a specialist engineering shop or similar would be the place to start. Cheap stainless items lack the alloys to make them corrosion resistant, what we pay for is what we get.

Yes but you can just put in a bigger gauge screw if needed.

stainless is not great. Even the higher grade stuff. Stainless used in coastal environments requires a very regular maintenance scheme to avoid rusting. Brass and bronze are the best in extreme environments. Just a pity it's so soft. We use stainless because it's strong and is better than normal steel.

the real issue though is stainless screws into brass insert. dissimilar metals in salt water are not great. When all is said and done stainless screws into plastic is really the best option. Or regular maintenance.

not sure what happened with the wind tech. Could be cheap stainless, could be galvanic corrosion, could even be leaving board in a board bag wet.

ranex is great stuff. I've cleaned old boards and restored an old drum kit with it. It removes finger prints tho.