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Aerotech charge with NP mast?

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Created by CAN17 Two weeks ago, 21 Jun 2020
CAN17
362 posts
21 Jun 2020 10:09AM
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Thinking about adding this 3.5 aerotech charge to my all neil pryde sail quiver. Most of my small sails(4.2,5.2) are old early 2000 raf jets and rig on a neil pryde wave 400/ imcs19 constant curve. I read aerotech sails use constant curve masts(?)
The recommended sized mast for this sail is 400/ imcs 19 keeping in mind this sail is old aswell.

I reached out to aerotech to see if they know the year of this sail. If my NP 400/19 mast won't rig it half decent then won't bother.

Figure it could be a cheap way to extend my upper wind limit for foiling


Tardy
3548 posts
21 Jun 2020 2:38PM
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yes .aerotech mast have been in the middle of the unifibre chart as constant curve for a few years now

the pryde mast will be softer ...still being progressive curve and softer flex ,

but better too soft than too hard .. .when you jump on that little mother ,i doubt you'll notice any diff ..

it will work .I've been using a simmer RDM ,On my EZZY'S where the simmer is creeping toward a soft top too
but i really like the extra flex ,it just seems easier to use ..and softer feel .

forceten
1163 posts
21 Jun 2020 9:01PM
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I think I would pass on this, if you have to use on a NP mast. When going nukelar small I want the rig to match as much as possible, as it's already a challenge.
in really small sizes , they can be found cheap, from what I see, and usually good shape, little use.I like the Aerotech sails, had a few.

Paducah
984 posts
22 Jun 2020 12:45AM
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Are your NPs old ones or recent? I don't think the older ones were notoriously flex top. (I could be wrong)

I'd be tempted to rig it on a 370 anyway since you won't be putting as much pressure on it as a regular windsurfer in those conditions. The amount of power it takes to get an 80 lt. board going is much different than what it takes for a foil. Forceten would normally be correct but I'd expect that you are going to be using this in less than nuclear conditions with the foil. (Say 25-30 instead of 35-40)

CAN17
362 posts
22 Jun 2020 3:32AM
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Paducah said..
Are your NPs old ones or recent? I don't think the older ones were notoriously flex top. (I could be wrong)

I'd be tempted to rig it on a 370 anyway since you won't be putting as much pressure on it as a regular windsurfer in those conditions. The amount of power it takes to get an 80 lt. board going is much different than what it takes for a foil. Forceten would normally be correct but I'd expect that you are going to be using this in less than nuclear conditions with the foil. (Say 25-30 instead of 35-40)


Your right Paducah my NPs are not flex top like the newer NPs. Mine are constant curve from about 2001(made in USA). I would rather just rig it on my 400 mast instead of getting another mast.

Yes most likely won't use it for windsurfing much as I suck at it, will hopefully make it on my 66L board one day. Mostly will use it foiling high winds 25kts>.


forceten
1163 posts
22 Jun 2020 5:29AM
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www.peterman.dk/masts-all-imcs01.htm
Does the sail know that the board is a foil , rig, ?

CAN17
362 posts
22 Jun 2020 8:33AM
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Another interesting read herewww.peterman.dk/windsurf-mast-article-gb01.htm

I think for light wind windfoiling you tune your sail a bit differently compared to windsurfing to get the draft more forward. I know a guy who runs a stiffer mast on his 5.8 naish sail foiling in light wind and likes the way it pumps for a big guy.

For higher winds when foiling you don't need as much power I think control is key and try to rig my 4.2 with lots of down haul similar to windsurfing, luff 388 using the recommended 400 wave mast. It is fairly difficult to down haul to the max even with a harness wounder how the 3.5 will be.
Take this with a grain of salt my sail tuning skills are pretty limited for windsurfing basically only foiling for the last two years

Grantmac
316 posts
22 Jun 2020 10:26AM
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For foiling I rig on the minimum recommended downhaul then run the maximum recommended outhaul. That gets the draft forward and maintains good pumping ability.

CAN17
362 posts
22 Jun 2020 11:36PM
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Here is what Steve from Aerotech told me today.
"That looks like a 2001 Charge. A 370/16 CC would be ideal. Your mast should work but the sail might feel a bit stiff. I think you could use the NP head cap on this sail as well"

So looks like my 400 mast might make it harder to handle in strong winds with the stiffer mast? harder to downhaul. But be good for pumping in lulls. See if I can find a 370/16.

Why would they say use a 400/19 on the sail specs if a 370 works better.



CAN17
362 posts
23 Jun 2020 4:22AM
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Would cutting 10 or 12cm off the bottom of my 400cm mast effect anything much? I only use this mast for my 4.2(luff388) and then if I get the 3.5 the mast would only be sticking out the top of the sail ~14cm instead of like 26cm.
Kinda seems like wasted space having all that mast poking past the sail.

forceten
1163 posts
23 Jun 2020 8:41PM
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CAN17 said..
Would cutting 10 or 12cm off the bottom of my 400cm mast effect anything much? I only use this mast for my 4.2(luff388) and then if I get the 3.5 the mast would only be sticking out the top of the sail ~14cm instead of like 26cm.
Kinda seems like wasted space having all that mast poking past the sail.


Last resort, I wouldn't do it ever.

CAN17
362 posts
25 Jun 2020 7:19AM
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No cutting necessary... well until I find a 370. Tryed it today foiled in 15-34kts. First rigged with too little DH and it was a female dog to sail then added more DH MUCH better!
Any tips to make it look even better are appreciated. Remember mostly foiling!


2keen
WA, 96 posts
25 Jun 2020 9:33AM
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Nice video there
Can see the gusts on the water, sure makes things difficult

CAN17
362 posts
25 Jun 2020 10:35AM
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2keen said..
Nice video there
Can see the gusts on the water, sure makes things difficult


Thanks Simon, yeah it was really gusty. Used the TC 68 for most of the day. But switched to the i76 when it got a bit lighter, think I was on the i76 in the video. We hardly ever get enough wind in that little bay because of the wind shadow to shoot a video so made for a good day.

As a side note; I switched my feet before the sail flip in that gybe but I see a lot of people switching them after the sail flip. I have tryed both ways but haven't rode switch stance much so probably takes some getting used to?

azymuth
WA, 1067 posts
25 Jun 2020 12:51PM
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CAN17 said..As a side note; I switched my feet before the sail flip in that gybe but I see a lot of people switching them after the sail flip. I have tryed both ways but haven't rode switch stance much so probably takes some getting used to?



Nice vid Connor

I find gybing switch stance (move feet after sail flip) easier.
Simon (gybemaster) nails them all


By the way, at the point in your turn below you could try and pull the clew in and transfer more weight over your front foot to carve harder.


2keen
WA, 96 posts
25 Jun 2020 3:23PM
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,

I find switching feet after sail flip easiest.
I feel like my stability through the turn comes from having my front foot in the strap and my back foot on the opposite rail. It kind of doesn't feel like riding switch foot because you have effectively already rotated your stance through 80 degrees or so.
Its only once the turn and sail flip are complete that I switch feet. I think there is possibly less room for error this way

At the end of the day though, whatever works for you. Gusty conditions are the most challenging and you gybed cleanly.

CAN17
362 posts
25 Jun 2020 9:16PM
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azymuth said..





CAN17 said..As a side note; I switched my feet before the sail flip in that gybe but I see a lot of people switching them after the sail flip. I have tryed both ways but haven't rode switch stance much so probably takes some getting used to?





Nice vid Connor

I find gybing switch stance (move feet after sail flip) easier.
Simon (gybemaster) nails them all


By the way, at the point in your turn below you could try and pull the clew in and transfer more weight over your front foot to carve harder.





Yes definitely agree JJ, after watching that again. I think I was a bit overpowered on the i76 at that point and didn't want to crash

I watch my foot change slow motion and I hardly move my feet(sam ross tip slide front foot stright in the strap) that and the stability of the i76 makes for easy gybes.


Select to expand quote
2keen said..
,

I find switching feet after sail flip easiest.
I feel like my stability through the turn comes from having my front foot in the strap and my back foot on the opposite rail. It kind of doesn't feel like riding switch foot because you have effectively already rotated your stance through 80 degrees or so.
Its only once the turn and sail flip are complete that I switch feet. I think there is possibly less room for error this way

At the end of the day though, whatever works for you. Gusty conditions are the most challenging and you gybed cleanly.



Wow that's a sweet gybe Simon! Seems like it would feel quicker too. Will definitely start trying that more. I think I need to work on switching my feet earlier when I gybe that way. All the SS team riders gybe like that...so you must be doing something right

Will post my next vid in the right forum next time to get some more tips



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"Aerotech charge with NP mast?" started by CAN17