Kinora forum posts in last 60 days

Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
30 Jul 2026 8:03pm
garymalmgren said..
RE: kept telling me to go to port despite that being off the lead lights (fourth mistake).
If in doubt SPEAK UP.
There is nothing worse than hearing, "I thought that would happen," after the event.

gary



Hope you weren't affected by the recent earthquake, Gary.

K.
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
30 Jul 2026 8:00pm
Thanks, Lazzz, Saltiest1 and Bullrout.

In the end, I used De-solv-it, rags and paper towels to get rid of the worst gunk. Then Starbrite Bilge Cleaner through a spay bottle, scrubbed with a long handle toilet brush and rinsed with warm water. I treated myself to a Karcher wet/dry vacuum and it was brilliant.

The original problem was a Rule 1100 gph that didn't remove enough water from the bilge, leading to wet floors when heeled. The pump also cycled continuously due to backflow through the clogged check valve. Solved by fitting a Rule LoPro non-automatic that sits right down in the deep V bilge. 19mm outlet hose to reduce backflow (300 ml per metre). A Water Witch switch mounted 50 mm above the pump. Should have listened to Ramona years ago ...

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
30 Jul 2026 7:47pm
Very good posts from Trek and R13. Read several times.

We did Sydney (Watson's Bay) to Greenwell Point on the delivery in March 2021 and it was a formative experience. We left late (0930) and that was the first mistake. Good progress but we arrived off Greenwell Point after dark (second mistake). The skipper had not been into Greenwell Point before but we still decided to go in (10 kts wind, 1.5m seas). Third mistake. The skipper was using Navionics on a tablet and kept telling me to go to port despite that being off the lead lights (fourth mistake). I didn't understand my responsibilities as owner and didn't know enough to point out the wrong course to the skipper (fifth mistake). As we came down off a wave, the keel struck a rock, part of the breakwater on the southern side of the entrance. The next wave lifted the boat up and the rudder struck rock on the way down. Panic. I added revs, steered to starboard and we got away. The boat was on the slip at Greenwell Point for a week while we repaired the bottom bearing of the rudder. We were very lucky, it could have been much worse but I learnt a great deal about responsibility and what not to do.

Don't allow 1 person to be responsible for everything, everyone (especially the owner) should know how to get into the harbour you're entering. Don't enter a harbour you don't know well in darkness unless you really have to. Plan your trip so you get there in daylight. Always believe the lead lights not Navionics. Basic seamanship, I guess.

I would recommend doing it in 2 legs, the days are short right now. Shell Harbour has a marina, supposed to be good. Wait for a weather window and leave early. As Trek says, tell Marine Rescue what you're doing and let them know when you get there.

If you prepare well and follow the excellent advice on this forum, you are very likely to have a fantastic time.

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
27 Jul 2026 9:29am
Thanks, Ramona. I assumed they existed, I'm just not sure where or what other sumps/cavities exist under the floor. The floor is going to have to come up at some stage when I replace the ring frame ...

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
27 Jul 2026 9:27am
Thanks, Phil and JonE. I was hoping there was an easy way but in the end I've used De-solv-it, rags, paper towels and Starbrite degreaser with warm water wash. Access is really bad, I've had to remove the cooling water inlet hoses and filter to get access to the bilge. The best scrubbing tool so far has been a long handled toilet brush, the kind with a rounded, cylindrical head. Today, I'll invest in a mid-range wet/dry vac to suck wash and rinse water out. Dick Smith sell a steam cleaner with a long wand. It also has a hot water jet (but you have to change attachments). I think the combination of a steam jet, hot water rinse jet and a wet vac would make the job easier.

I'm thinking of building a fibreglass tray lined with oil absorbant pads to sit under the engine and gearbox but above the level of the Water Witch to keep oil and fuel leaks or spills separate from the bilge water. Anyone tried this?

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
22 Jul 2026 9:01am
Does anyone have photos of what's under the cabin sole of a Currawong? I'm trying to figure out if there are any spaces and limber holes between the engine bay/bilge, the under-floor tanks and the sump under the ring frame.

@AndrewMaticka - not sure if you're still active on here but you once sent me a link to pictures of when you replaced the ring frame on Currawong. I've lost the link, if you could send it to me again, I'd be grateful.

Cheers,
Peter
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
22 Jul 2026 8:54am
The bilge on the Currawong is a small, deep "V" directly under the engine and gearbox. Over the years, the bilge on Kinora has built up a fair amount of sticky, black sludge on the walls of the bilge. Parts break off and then foul the check valve on the bilge pump so I need to do a thorough clean. The advice received so far is to soften the gunk, scrape off as much as possible, wash with a degreaser. Difficult and laborious work in a confined space.

What have others done to thoroughly clean contaminated bilges?

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
22 Jul 2026 8:25am
Chris 249 said..
What’s the concensus on how long Propspeed lasts? Our plastic feathering prop is susceptible to fouling, in that if the blades don’t spin into the correct position the engine won’t deliver revs in reverse. On the other hand, Propspeed costs about the same as a new Windsurfer sail or a nice carbon wheel for the racing bike, and in many ways I’d rather spend the cash on toys like that and just dive in to clean the prop.

Has anyone tried a lick of hard racing antifoul on the prop and shaft? I used to have hard racing on the old boat and I can’t recall the prop and shaft getting dirty before the hull did.


I get about 12 months in the Gippsland Lakes and then the Propspeed coated propellor has enough growth to really slow the boat down. To be honest, I haven't found much difference between Propspeed and no Propspeed.

However, that may be circumstance. The boat has sat idle for months at a time and conventional wisdom says you need to spin the prop at least every month to wash off the early stages of growth. That's my goal for this year.

Cheers,
Kinora
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
3 Jul 2026 9:57am
Trek said..
There actually is a USA standard for installation of lithium batteries on boats ABYC E-13. The American Boat and Yacht Council’s industry-standard for the safe installation, operation, and maintenance of lithium-ion battery systems on recreational boats. It requires marine-certified batteries that meet IEC62619 (ie. they should come with a certificate of safety), proper ventilation, robust Battery Management Systems (BMS that actually work and are bullet proof), and secure restraints. This is an excellent guide. In Australia there is AS/NZS 3004.2:2014 which are government mandated standards for installation of lithium batteries on recreational vessels.


Many thanks, Trek.

K.
Kinora
Kinora
VIC
204 posts
VIC, 204 posts
2 Jul 2026 5:58pm
Trek said..
IMHO even LiFePO4 barreries can burn but are enormously safer than other chemistries. Thermal run away much less likely. Since we cant see inside a big battery we have to assume its unknown BMS and cell quality unless certified. So take precautions. Put them in a metal vented box so if they fail the fire is less likely to sink the boat. Like on aircraft that use them. And monitor their temperature. I dont have mine in a box but both batteries have temperature sensors glued on top to trigger an alarm if they get hot and isolation relays to disconnect them if that happens.Maybe Im paranoid but fires on boats are scary.


I was told recently that I could only upgrade to Lithium batteries if they were in a sealed compartment that vented outside the cabin. Is this so? In that case my upgrade options are limited without substantial work.