SurferKris forum posts in last 60 days

SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
12 Oct 2026 4:04am
This reminds me of the Starboard Hypersonic board with the large double concaves. It can be very efficient in medium winds but it kinds of lacks a "fith-gear " and an all out top-speed when the conditions turn on. I don't think there is anything that can match the traditional slalom and speed boards for an experienced rider. But there might be something to gain for the average joe in medium to lighter winds.
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
7 Oct 2026 3:38am
Troll bot?
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
5 Oct 2026 2:41am
Gestalt said..

If you are using a much longer extension to allow the extra 4cm then this is not ideal as the extra extension length changes the mast bend curve.


Not really, if the sail has a fixed top. With a vario-top though you could play around with different positions of the mast inside the luff pocket.
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
1 Oct 2026 5:27pm
I set my boom height in relation to how the sail feels and how the board behaves on the water. So the "boom-height" in my case would be fixed in relation to the power-center of the sail. Thus having an extra gap between the pulley would mean that the height of the boom, compared to the deck of the board, would be unnecessarily height. This is most noticeable on larger sails where the boom tends to end up fairly high (about chin-level on Formula sails) , and I always strive to have a small gap at the pulleys (maximum around 2cm, but never 0 cm as then one can not fine-tune the downhaul).

For wave-riding you also want to avoid a high boom position as this reduces the reach of the arms and limits the body movements and the ability to put pressure on the rail of the board etc. So it is not about "closing the gap", or sail efficiency, in this application.
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
25 Sep 2026 10:33pm
To me the smaller diameter tubes are only helping when using gloves, while without gloves I feel that the finger-tips become colder compared to when using a boom with a larger diameter. I will get "white-fingers" earlier on the slim booms compared to the more regular diameter booms, even in fairly moderately cold weathers.

If it is really cold (around or even below freezing temperatures) then I use the Dakine cold water mittens. Above that it is either open palm mittens or gloves. Open gloves feel a little better as there is still a bit of insulation covering each finger-tip, while with mittens there is instead a water-filled pocket for the finger-tips.

I once had a repaired carbon slalom boom that didn't have a regular grip fitted over the repair. That region (front-hand position) of the boom always felt colder compared to the rest of the boom, so I don't think that you can reduce the grip thickness very much or you will loose the needed thermal insulation from the conductive carbon. On days below freezing I will get ice on the leeward side of the boom, so after a jibe the boom is very slippery at first, until the ice is melted away under my hands. So thermal insulation is also an important property of the boom-grip.






SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
29 Aug 2026 8:27pm
Mr Milk said..
I checked. Rigged my old NP 5.4 Combat in the backyard and lined up a carpenters square by eye.
True, set in the middle of the cut out it deviates from perpendicular a few degrees, but it gets square at about 1/3 from the bottom.
There isn't much more than 20cm of vertical movement possible from there, so my maths is good to the financial modelling standard even if it doesn't pass engineering.


Proper math is always correct though. ;)
I've now taken a look at my Severne S1 (5.2) laid out flat on the ground, using two straight rulers and a digital angle measurement. My normal boom-height setting gives about 100 degrees between the upper side of the boom and the mast sleeve. Raising the boom about 5cm gives a reading of about 102 degrees. So if we assume that the written numbers (161 cm) are valid at 90 degrees, then following boom-lengths are needed:
@ 100 degrees: 161/cos(10)≈163.5 cm
@102 degrees: 161/cos(12)≈164.6 cm
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
29 Aug 2026 8:19pm
I have some old booms with just a white line every 10cm, that is all that is needed, no need for detailed numbers.
A simple calculation (adding distance to the shortest length of the boom) and counting a few holes, will get you close enough. If needs to one can quite easily alter both outhaul and boom extension on the water.
SurferKris
SurferKris
514 posts
514 posts
28 Aug 2026 7:41pm
Mr Milk said..
The idea that boom height makes a difference is attractive, but it doesn't stand up to maths.
Pythagoras theorem kills it. Say you have a small wave sail with 150cm outhaul and the boom perpendicular to the mast in the middle of the cutout.
Moving the boom up or down by 10cm changes the length to the clew by 0.3mm.
Even a 20cm deviation results in only 13mm change.
The change is relatively smaller as the boom gets longer. At 200cm a 20cm move on the mast is only 10mm at the clew


Sounds like there is something wrong with your maths....

Pythagoras theorem is only valid for a triangle which has one 90 degree angle. We never have that on a windsurfing rigg, we can possibly get fairly close to that at the lowest boom height (I haven't checked), but at boom-heights above that the angle is different and thus the boom needs to be set longer (the higher we set the boom) in order to pull at the outhaul with a similar force.

Small changes at around 90 degrees will indeed require only very small differences in the boom length, but go away a bit from 90 degrees and the difference is much larger. It is then more instructive to take a look at how much the sine function changes when we are 10 degrees or more away from 90 degrees.