SurferKris forum posts in last 60 days

I have some old booms with just a white line every 10cm, that is all that is needed, no need for detailed numbers.
A simple calculation (adding distance to the shortest length of the boom) and counting a few holes, will get you close enough. If needs to one can quite easily alter both outhaul and boom extension on the water.

I sail mostly at a fairly big lake and I don't think that is any single magic trick, but there are few things that helps:
- Choose a sailing spot where the wind is along the shore and has no islands in the way of the wind.
- Pick a rig that is about right for the average wind but that you can also handle in the strongest gusts.
- Always rigg with full downhaul (otherwise the sail will not handle well when you have a proper wind-strength).
- Use an adjustable outhaul, even on wave sails. You don't have to tune a wavesails as often as you would on a Formula sail, but it is were nice to be able to tune on the go rather than at the beach. On wave-booms I use the simpler strap adjustment on one side of the boom only, not the full-on race version (I only use that on race and Formula stuff).
- Pick a board that will carry the chosen sail size and still float you home if needed (for me it means about 78l or larger, depending on the sail size).

You cannot tell much from using a wavesail. A proper race sail will have a more locked in feeling and provide more backfoot pressure etc. Everything moved well back is the way to, then raise the boom to reduce the mastfoot pressure etc. You will always need a high speed to fly of the fin, fairly flat water and a good enough fin etc. On a 95 liter board I don't think that you will fly off the fin until you are above at least 25knots, and then it only gets better from there, lean back and enjoy the ride!

Oh, and be careful with wingfoilers, you will sail much faster than them and they do need a fair bit of safety distance. More so than with other windsurfers, in my experience.

The outer diameters would very similar but the thread-pitch of an M5 is finer (0.8mm) than on the 10-24 (with 24 threads over 25.4 mm).

The FCS screws are also 10-24, but in general shorter in length compared to the Simmer ones. They work well as a simple test for comparing/check the thread pitch though.