akhawk said...

Gorgo said...

I think the worst situation is when you get caught inside and just make it over the peak. The board can go over the falls or get caught by the white water and twang out to the end of the leash. If anyone is behind you they can get clobbered.

I don't know how to eliminate this one. Even the most skilful surfer is going to get caught inside sometime.

This can happen to any kind of surfer but it is more critical for SUP and other big boards. You can't just push it through the face like a short board.

Being caught by whitewater is less of a problem. You just turn around and ride the foam in and try again. The big problem is when the big sneaker set hits and you just make it over the top ... or not. :-(

Gorgo, this is exactly what happened to me.

Also try to position yourself with nobody directly behind you before the whitewash hits - look around quickly and see what space you have.

Even if there is other surfers caught on the inside as well, look them in the eye and show them by your actions your getting into position to get hammered somewhere not near them, mostly they will see what you are doing and get off to one side a bit.

As well, kick your board (towards the beach, not into the wave) out so the white wash will hit it straight on, this way you will get dragged in a straight line (more or less) - A full on sideways hit on the board will cause the board to get flicked around more and you to get dragged further.

When the surf has some size to it, i really dunno how anyone can be expected to physically hang onto both a 9'+ board and paddle and keep it all under control.

speaking of going down with your sinking ship,,,,


what do u hold onto, i normally find the leash saver with a bit of a dive the best??


i can highly un-recommend the accidental wrapping of the leggy around the ankles method

otherwise If Im in striking distance of other people, I hug the thing and hang on for dear life

Brooko you must have arms like King Kong to do that , I know my limits on hanging on to my 9-10 before I dislocate a shoulder .The smaller the board the easier it is to hang onto , but if any newbies are reading this and they are thinking of hanging onto there 11+ boards through broken wasves.... forget it just ditch it as safely as you can even in small stuff.

Rob

That handle looks like a good idea, might give it a try. With the two plugs on the Starboard it should be easy to set up. Might get a bit hectic with a board in one hand and paddle in the other.

In bigger surf, if I see a set coming I usually have a quick look around me to see where the others are and then start paddling to where I think that they aren't going to be when the waves arrive. Then just jump straight down under the broken wave as it comes and hang on to my paddle - not much you can do with 10'+ of board and 10'+ of leggie hanging off your foot when a set is coming through and you are in the middle of it all. Have tried hanging on to my board with limited success, but I imagine wrestling an angry gorilla would be easier and I was constantly thinking about where the fins might be. Also, my arms have a bit of trouble wrapping around a 30" wide board, or 32" when I had the 12'.

Other than when the situation is hopeless, it is worth trying and practicing paddling over the broken wave - with your feet in the surfing position. You surprise yourself sometimes when it actually works and if you get it right during a set you are in a far better position than the others that are caught inside. And even of you only half make if, you most probably have at least got over the wave.

The more you do it, the more confident you become in using it and if you can pull tricks off like that the others will see that you know what you are doing.

I think there is a description of it on this site somewhere.

Ive tried kneelin through the white water and I seem ta get more of a hammerin than standin.
I find if I take the white water standin in the surfin stance I end up over the back of the wave , even if I fall off i dont get too trashed. Then its just a matter of haulin in the board and off ya go again.
I have also been known to run away and have another crack during a lull or paddle around through the channell.
I like the handle idea though. Im gonna go and make one up today while theres no waves.
W