Do you ever get over surfing?

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kadilak

QLD

605 posts

kadilak

QLD, 605 posts

9 May 2012 8:17pm

Not so much a mojo problem here, but I feel robbed when life gets in the way of fun. Not to mention my old, weak inflexible body

Life has got in the way too many times this last month, and it got colder since. What sort of warm attire are we all using this time of year? And what time of day are we getting wet?

Tassiedevel

TAS

2249 posts

Tassiedevel

TAS, 2249 posts

9 May 2012 8:21pm

Know where you bloke are coming from sometimes surfing becomes another chore to try and squeeze in between work / family time / other commitments etc .
Being self employed I made a rule this year when there is surf about I take an hour to drop in and have a surf . Think of it as my lunch break which I haven't had for about 10 years , but for me I get to have a surf , de stress ,keep fit , still get home at a decent hour so the wife is kept happy , so everybody is happy .
When I 1 st started I was tempted to take the phone out with me in a dry pack to save upsetting any clients but I realize now that most clients can wait if they can't I don't want their work anyway .
It's called working to live not living to work . Should have figured it out years ago .

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

9 May 2012 6:21pm

Stay on topic well for this one anyway.

chrispychru

QLD

7932 posts

chrispychru

QLD, 7932 posts

9 May 2012 8:22pm

indian said...

laceys lane said...

cmc, mark richo used to tell me part of being a good surfer is knowing when to peak when you know swell is coming. i thought about it and he is right.

many times a swell was building i would go nuts at dbar before hand, then when the points turned it i was tired, sore and spent.

maybe something to think about. we have had a lot of surf since you've been back

cheers

educate the longboarders Lacey see you in the water

yeh see you out there maybe? i was going to write something mean and sarcastic,yet that would make you happy......

kadilak

QLD

605 posts

kadilak

QLD, 605 posts

9 May 2012 8:22pm

62mac said...

Stay on topic well for this one anyway.

Do agree, you need a fish

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

9 May 2012 6:23pm

Tassiedevel said...

Know where you bloke are coming from sometimes surfing becomes another chore to try and squeeze in between work / family time / other commitments etc .
Being self employed I made a rule this year when there is surf about I take an hour to drop in and have a surf . Think of it as my lunch break which I haven't had for about 10 years , but for me I get to have a surf , de stress ,keep fit , still get home at a decent hour so the wife is kept happy , so everybody is happy .
When I 1 st started I was tempted to take the phone out with me in a dry pack to save upsetting any clients but I realize now that most clients can wait if they can't I don't want their work anyway .
It's called working to live not living to work . Should have figured it out years ago .

How true is the non lunch break and that's a great way to look at it Tassiedevel hello someone turned the lights on thanks

Tassiedevel

TAS

2249 posts

Tassiedevel

TAS, 2249 posts

9 May 2012 8:28pm

Kadilac I was out surfing till 6 p.m. Last night after also having a surf through the day. It was a bit dark but 1st time we have had surf here for a while so couldn't resist .
Have to admit it was a bit cool had to wear booties / gloves / a 4/3 wetsuit and I have started wearing a wetsuit hot pack under my wetsuit . Pretty much a gel pack that releases heat for about an hour when activated .

newguy

654 posts

newguy

654 posts

9 May 2012 6:29pm

kadilak said...

Life has got in the way too many times this last month, and it got colder since. What sort of warm attire are we all using this time of year? And what time of day are we getting wet?

if you jump over to the SB forum there is a famous poster that surfs 'tearooms' in boardshorts all year round. Been doing that last few morn - arvo sesh's in 18ish degrees of water. Gotta say, it is much more refreshing than surfing in a wetty. Reinvigorating although you start freezing in a couple hours

SP

10982 posts

9 May 2012 6:33pm

chrispychru said...

indian said...

educate the longboarders Lacey see you in the water

yeh see you out there maybe? i was going to write something mean and sarcastic,yet that would make you happy......

Spot on chrispy share the cute cuddly vibe of the lb room, here is a cute puppy just for Indian

Page 3 and still on topic

so I won't make a comment about being very warm in a long sleeve springy today, maybe back to the cooler one tomorrow. Water was 20 ish and air was surprisingly warm 2.

And doggie I like boobs 2

slainte

QLD

2246 posts

slainte

QLD, 2246 posts

9 May 2012 8:44pm

BulldogPup said...

slainte said...

Don,t make the same mistake as a lot of others CMC, including myself. Started surfing at Grafton(Yamba) with a cousin while on hols at the ripe old age of 8. Stood up on my second lot of white water. As we didn,t live close to the coast,didn,t surf to much. This has continued for 41 years now, and haven,t had a surf since I broke the board at Lennox 6 years ago. At that stage I was surfing 6 or 7 times a year only bacause life gets in the way more than it should. What I did each time I started surfing again was go and sit at the beach and watch and remember what it was like(good and bad). year ago I got fed up with not doing enough in the water and got right into sailing. Sometimes its good to have a break from the things you love doing but don,t let them go completely. Am just now srtarting to yearn being back on a board. Maybe when the Pup,s back at Chrissy

Quoted

Noted

chrispychru

QLD

7932 posts

chrispychru

QLD, 7932 posts

9 May 2012 8:45pm

SP said...

jasdeking said...

CMC great thread to see we are actually humans ...

so my solution we breezers clearly would like to be a part of the "society of sons of rest ... 6 months holiday twice a year on full pay". BUT how to? a web based revenue stream where customers dont call us when we are surfing.

any ideas?

Porns the big seller, we could start Sleezebreeze.. Crispy, hook us up with some of your contacts

.

Good thread CMC, wish I had more time to reply but I'm off sailing so have a good arvo boys..

you went off topic so i will reply

yes you are right about porn,massive money. average weekly takings from our four shops per week in 1999 was $180,000(roughly 30g was from $1 movie booths,now that is alot of karate chops to ones self

) i will invest in sleazeteaze.com

Scotty88

4214 posts

Scotty88

4214 posts

9 May 2012 6:49pm

chrispychru said...

SP said...

Porns the big seller, we could start Sleezebreeze.. Crispy, hook us up with some of your contacts

.

Good thread CMC, wish I had more time to reply but I'm off sailing so have a good arvo boys..

you went off topic so i will reply

yes you are right about porn,massive money. average weekly takings from our four shops per week in 1999 was $180,000(roughly 30g was from $1 movie booths,now that is alot of karate chops to ones self

) i will invest in sleazeteaze.com

Safe to say Redtube would directly affect X rated dvd sales - apparently.

stuk

NSW

894 posts

stuk

NSW, 894 posts

9 May 2012 8:52pm

Tassiedevel said...

Kadilac I was out surfing till 6 p.m. Last night after also having a surf through the day. It was a bit dark but 1st time we have had surf here for a while so couldn't resist .
Have to admit it was a bit cool had to wear booties / gloves / a 4/3 wetsuit and I have started wearing a wetsuit hot pack under my wetsuit . Pretty much a gel pack that releases heat for about an hour when activated .

When I lived in Newcastle there was this old guy, the gut, towball head (sorry TB) ,the whole bit used to surf year round in dick stickers and nothing else, I think he might have been a bit touched.

chrispychru

QLD

7932 posts

chrispychru

QLD, 7932 posts

9 May 2012 8:53pm

^^^^not really mate. i would love to say more but its seabreeze im still on atm

CMC

QLD

3954 posts

CMC

QLD, 3954 posts

9 May 2012 8:59pm

arkgee said...

its called "mojo" cmc...and you have lost yours....dont panic...your a surfer, you will find it again and all will be good...I started when I was 10 and I'm 61 now so I think I can tell you from experience...you surf like a trojan when your young...dont even think about energy or work when your out there...then the years start piling on and things change...you have to manage what energy you have and work commitments are outwaying surf time...when you were young you would get home and be buzzing from all the waves you tore apart...those rare "shockers" start to become less rare...now you get home and think...that was a great turn I did this arvo...but you know what? that turn is all you really need in the latter years...you have to cop it on the chin...your getting older...so you have to think smarter...ride a bigger board and wait for the bombs...Whalon Jennings I think wrote "old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill"....I cant count how many times I have lost my mojo over the years...but you know what cmc? when you find it again (and you will)...its better than make up sex

Arkgee, this is hands down the best thing I have heard for days. Thanks so much mate. Legendary!

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

9 May 2012 7:03pm

62mac said...

Thanks for that arkgee,I needed that

I agree

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

9 May 2012 7:05pm

CMC one of the best topics in here for a very long time imho.
Now watch Another State Of Mind DVD,that will get the blood
pumping or a new one HOME

Scotty88

4214 posts

Scotty88

4214 posts

9 May 2012 7:46pm

Nice words mate. Re: Waylon Jennings. I'm sure he would have reflected on his life many times over after passing up his seat on that fateful flight. "The day the music died".

DUDE

NSW

1132 posts

DUDE

NSW, 1132 posts

10 May 2012 1:31am

"There is nothing a good day of surfing won't cure"

bobajob

QLD

1535 posts

bobajob

QLD, 1535 posts

10 May 2012 8:36pm

Lost interest for over 10 years. Got sick of competeing for crap waves. I noticed it really happened after surfing perfection in Indo and elswhere with just mates and coming home to 5hit.

Took up kiting, got a bit bored with that....but while I was getting bored with that I found a renewed interest in surfing again and think now I surf better than ever! The renewed interest in surfing has renewed my stoke in kiting and now spend alot more enjoyable time in and on the water.

The reason I think, is, being older I have nothing to prove and just love being out there on great days with good waves. Let those that want to hassel hassel and I'll take whatever comes.

Shocker sessions are a state of mind and maybe a sign to give it a rest for a while.

Hope you find your "mojo" for the surf some how!

Good luck

PS. I haven't read the whole thread but the title hit a chord

SP

10982 posts

11 May 2012 5:23pm

Watch this, this is without doubt the best clip I have ever put up..

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

11 May 2012 5:35pm

Nice work SP after CMC's thread it had me thinking all week and now ready for some ocean fun tomorrow

Ted the Kiwi

NSW

14256 posts

Ted the Kiwi

NSW, 14256 posts

11 May 2012 7:44pm

wow!!! The fiancé and I enjoyed that so much!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing that with us SP - you have put some good ones up but that does take the cake!!!!

I will have a hunt around for one I saw a few years back which gave me similar stoke - first I have to cook dinner though.

BulldogPup

6657 posts

BulldogPup

6657 posts

11 May 2012 5:50pm

62mac said...

Nice work SP after CMC's thread it had me thinking all week and now ready for some ocean fun tomorrow

Roll on brother , crank em up

CMC

QLD

3954 posts

CMC

QLD, 3954 posts

11 May 2012 7:51pm

62mac said...

Nice work SP after CMC's thread it had me thinking all week and now ready for some ocean fun tomorrow

Yep the perveyor of negativity is back!!

I'm over my slump. Tomorrow ride the 14' XXX to wash away some bugs in 1/2 a foot then go and get drunk all day at the races.

Yeeeeew!

Geez, am I bipolar?

BulldogPup

6657 posts

BulldogPup

6657 posts

11 May 2012 5:53pm

^^^^
Ah the power of the Longboard Room , it heals all ails CM

Bi-whaaaaaat?

Ted the Kiwi

NSW

14256 posts

Ted the Kiwi

NSW, 14256 posts

11 May 2012 7:55pm

This one is in honour of CMC and follows on from SP's great post

62mac

24860 posts

62mac

WA, 24860 posts

11 May 2012 5:59pm

Cheers Ted that's a weird set up hey

Ted the Kiwi

NSW

14256 posts

Ted the Kiwi

NSW, 14256 posts

11 May 2012 8:05pm

62mac said...

Cheers Ted that's a weird set up hey

Its not far from you - the river at Ballina!!!!!

Locky24

QLD

515 posts

Locky24

QLD, 515 posts

11 May 2012 11:29pm

Could never get sick of surfing no way..other wise the last 25 or so years have been a big waste.
Yer I go through periods when I have a few bad surfs be it due to conditions, crowds, winter, injuries or what ever, but hey thats life and for me it could be worse.
I could be stuck in some crappy town hours away from the ocean working some crappy job and spending my spare time hunched over the bonnet of some s#!tty car, telling my hommies its gonna be the ducks guts when I "fix her up" drinking what ever I can get my hands on all day every day, yelling at my missus and kids and BSing to my mates about how some hot piece of tail down at my local took a fancy to me, and I had to sort her out

after I gave the boyfriend a bit of what for.

STUFF THAT.

Couldn't get over surfing no way.
To everyone that does find themselves having a crap surf from time to time, I recommend going over the falls ( on purpose ) it will remind you why you took such a bloody awsome sport/hobbie in the first place.

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